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I ordered from them twice and didn't have any issues. I'm sure you'll be fine.

Yeah it's a bit of a weird process. I just put in my address info and sent them the payment via paypal. They contacted me the next day and the valves showed up a couple weeks later. The valves are made to order so it takes them a few days to make them.

I'd buy the one that works on a voltage range. Believe me, the voltages can be over a rather large range and it's nice to not have to deal with an issue of a ball valve that won't work because you're supplying 10.5V instead of the 12V it wants.

For the BCS, you'd need extra outputs for the ball vales. Other than that, everything else should stay the same. You might want to consider a larger reservoir, but the AC unit should be able to handle the added load. I'd doublecheck with the people that make the BCS about how many probes can...

Actually, the BCS-462 has the same limitation as the 460 with limiting probes associated to outputs. I raised the issue with the company that makes it but they didn't seem to think it was a problem (idiotic if you ask me). So, the only way around it is with some programming.

Thermometers are directly from brewershardware: http://www.brewershardware.com/BCS-460-Temperature-Sensors/ No real issues with the valves other than one being DOA. I'd order a spare or two since they're relatively cheap and take a while to get replacements though. There are two different...

I had stripped it out of the design due to the limitation of the number of outputs the BCS will allow you to associate to probes. There's apparently a workaround with process states that will let you emulate this functionality though. I bought the heat tape, but haven't had any time to tinker...

No the dimensions aren't critical. the washer is just there to constrain the o-ring.

I think I'm running 3-4 gallons of glycol at the moment in my system anyways. So, you should be fine. Leave some head space for an additional gallon if you need it. FYI, you can check the glycol content of the mixture with a refractometer and that will let you determine your minimum...

yeah, still haven't gotten around to writing up those wiring diagrams yet. I'll see when I'll have some time to start with the visio diagrams. In the mean time, there are some samples on the BCS wiki you can look through: http://wiki.embeddedcc.com/index.php/System_Examples Once you get...

1/2" PVC is more than adequate for 3 conicals BTW. With a 1/6 HP pump it's running at ~10PSI through the tubing and chills pretty quickly.

It's a 1/4 horsepower submersible pump with some tubing connected to it and a tri-clover fitting on the end. I have 1.5" tubing coming out the dump valve for the return. Put the pump in a 6 gal bucket of PBW and turn it on to cycle through the conical and it's good to go. If you can find a...

Been busy with a ton of other stuff and honestly forgot to check back here. Sorry for the late reply ;) They're 4" casters, ~5" total height IIRC. Here's where I got them: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400339419085&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160 Which washers? For the...

You could, but they're only 400-500 BTU vs 5000 for an A/C unit.

All I can really say is that caulking doesn't hold up long term. I ended up getting a second cooler and routing all the connections above the water line.

I haven't timed it, but 5-10 minutes or there about. Keep in mind I have a reservoir of 35 degree glycol for the initial chilling before the A/C unit kicks in. So, initially at least, it would cool quicker. I will say though, that even while chilling all 3 conicals at once, it is quite quick...

Might not have enough surface area then. Plate chillers are supposed to be more efficient than counterflow chillers and I can't say I've had any huge issues with my counterflow chiller. I just wish I could take it apart to clean. For the BCS, you can set a start and end temperature along with a...

Oh, are you pumping full speed through the plate chiller? That's probably why then. I have a ball valve on the output of the pump that I use to control the flow. I can generally chill ~1 gpm down to 70-80 degrees.

I'd probably throw it in an oven for a bit to kill off whatever may be in there, let it cool down, and then circulate PBW through it the opposite direction of wort flow for an hour or two. Should clean pretty much everything out of it.

I use a counterflow chiller from morebeer. In the summer, tap water is in the low 70s here. I generally can get the wort in the low 80s with it, which the glycol will take down to 45 for pitching lagers or low 60s for ales. In the winter, the wort will be in the low 60s before it gets to the...