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The key here is that you don't have to run every wire straight out of the bus. For example, on both 110v outlets, they have input and output terminals. So you daisy chain one outlet to the other. The same thing works with the SSRs. This also saves quite a bit of wire. For the chassis ground...

I used the other outlet for the wireless bridge. If you're hard wiring it, you can leave out the second outlet. Personally I only used 2 rails, and mounted the BCS in the center top with velcro. But, whatever logically works for you is fine.

I read somewhere that the ends of the coils are pot metal and will rust. I didn't paint mine and I haven't had any problems with it rusting though.

Glad to help. Don't worry about the shipping. If it bends, just take off the diamond plate and put another layer of sheet metal underneath it. Each conical only weighs 80-90lbs when full. If you're able, wired ethernet is going to be more reliable.

I just used some pipe wrap made for insulating copper water pipes in houses. It's thin black stuff that has adhesive on one side. Put a couple layers on where it goes through the cooler, and you'll stop the bulk of the air movement. Don't forget to insulate the exposed line of the A/C outside...

I bought a cheap netgear access point and put DD-WRT on it to set up as a bridge. It generally works fine, although I occasionally have to reboot it if it loses connectivity to my AP at home. Theoretically you'd get a slightly better signal. My control panel is next to the brewery though. So...

It really is amazing how many different directions people are taking this.

I suspect that it's going to be way too much heat in a small area. I doubt the yeast would be happy. If you want to heat it, your best bet is heat wrap around the outside of the conical.

an aquarium heater won't rust, won't boil the water, and will generally work better. You're not trying to get the glycol to boiling. So, the heating element is way overkill. 85 or so should do it.

If you're planning on using a heater, use an aquarium heater.

I'm going to try to get all the pex stuff out to you this coming week. I've been slammed due to the holidays and haven't had a chance yet.

Any vet supply place online should have it. It's 100% pure propylene glycol and is food grade. I think mine was ~$20/gallon.

Yeah, I only bought one that I swap between. I use the same fitting in the lid for the blowoff valve. I bought this spray ball: http://www.brewershardware.com/Rotating-CIP-Spray-Ball-1-2-Female-FPT-Connection.html I had purchased it before I decided to go with tri-clover fittings throughout...

If it's not spinning, chances are your pump isn't supplying enough water at a high enough pressure. I use a 1/4 hp pump (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X05G1A/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20) that does 30gpm. So, the 5.5gpm aquatec is probably a bit small. for the quick disconnect on the lids, I...

You might be able to leave it in place, although I'd be concerned how far down it drops in the conical. I don't think I'd want yeast getting in to it as that'd be a nightmare to clean.

I had one infection, but I'm pretty sure it was due to fruit flies as my garbage (and thus spent grain) was right outside the door to where I brew. I've since moved that further away and the flies haven't been a problem since. I haven't done any of this yet and it's just an idea for the future...

I have a spray bottle filled with sanitizer. I spray it all around the lid of the conicals before I fill them. The coils sit in a bucket of sanitizer while I'm filling. What I've been considering doing is pumping the cooled wort directly in to the conical via one of the ports though. That...

Yeah it will, here's a thread about it: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f235/7-segment-display-wiring-bcs-460-a-390955/ and how to wire it up from the ECC wiki: http://wiki.embeddedcc.com/index.php/External_7-Segment_Display

Yeah, there's one that's designed to look like a PID: https://www.oscsys.com/store/product/188 Will show you current and set temp. I was considering adding it to mine but never got around to it.

When no power is applied to your ball valves, are they open or closed?