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I've been brewing for the last few years and starting to get a collection of recipies that I really like. I also give away half (or more) of the beer I brew to friends in trade for honest critique of those beers. My goal, like most on here, is to brew better beers. Enter the problem... most...

I think in my case it's not actually that the malt is somehow bad or spoiled, just that, for some reason, my taste perception of honey malt is the similar to the sour lacto taste... kinda' like how some people perceive the taste of cilantro as being similar to dish soap. Just wondered if maybe...

Probably a good practice to avoid as you've already figured out. For whatever it's worth, I've used Honey Malt in several different brews and, at least to my palate, it seems to develop a taste similar to a mild lacto-infection anyhow. I wasn’t initially sure what was causing the...

Wow! slick build!

That is kind of the direction I was thinking unless someone had another idea. I might be overthinking the whole thing, I was just worried about disturbing the grain bed but I guess it would not be a problem at all to kill the pump and burner on the mash tun for the last 10 minutes or so of the...

I stumbled into the Brutus 10 youtube videos by Lonnie Mac and that answered most of my questions. I guess the only remaining question, is everyone using the prescribed curved return tube in the lid of the MLT or are people using something else? It seems there must be someone OCD enough to...

I purchased the plans for the Brutus 10 and have the majority of the build sorted out but lacking a little understanding on the kettle set-up and the plans are a bit vague in this area. I'll be using 15.5 gal SS pots and planning to stick with weldless fittings. I like the idea of plumbing the...

I don't have either of those mills but as I said earlier in the thread I have the cereal killer, which does not have stainless rollers. I have always conditioned my grain and my rollers have never had even the slightest indication of rust. I think by the time we're milling, the grain has...

I think you'll love it. I set my roller gap with a cheap automotive feeler guage when I first got it and haven't had to adjust it even once since.

That was the needed fix then, good info! I think mine was maybe just a hair over an inch and a half, it was pretty tough milling with no leverage. If I ever go back to hand cranking I'll either fabricate a new, longer handle or maybe try to get one in the new length.

One more vote for the Cereal Killer. Good quality and it was inexpensive (I think I got in on the $90 plus free shipping deal too). I've had mine about a year and have milled hundreds of pounds of grain with it. The settings haven't changed a bit. The one thing I would possibly change is the...

The main advantage is higher efficiency. In a nutshell, a short time before milling the grain enough water is sprayed over the grain to wet the husk and make it more pliable. This allowes a finer milling without tearing the husk. Obviously you'll have to change your mill settings with less...

I linked the thread on mine, which shows my spacing, in post #6 of this thread. Again, I'm sure there's other ways to do it but this is how I did mine and it works well for me. I made a quick template on MS Paint on the computer to mark the center of the holes and then cut the paper into...

That sounds like it may be a bit much if you're talking about before the boil and can see that they are grain particles. If you are talking about after the boil and especially if you are using irish moss or whirlfoc, it could just be the heavier proteins settling to the bottom, this is normal...

I've been conditioning the grain since I started AG so I can't really compare before/after results but have been quite pleased. Efficiency varies somewhat from recipe to recipe (my lowest is 82 and my highest was 92, most barley brews are around 84), but re-brews on the same recipe have been...

If it's just the occasional piece of grain I wouldn't change a thing if you're otherwise happy. If it's a significant amount of grain then the slots are too wide for that particular crush. However if you change the crush you're also going to change your efficency and probably make it less...

Without the grainbill and pre-boil water volume there's not quite enough info there to determine actual efficiency but you matched efficiency with whatever recipe you used at least, that is most of the battle in AG brewing, congrats!

Looks good! I think, in theory, that will give you a more equal pull than the original design. Did you end up batch sparging or fly sparging? Were you able to determine your efficiency?

One option is to glue the extension that leads from the middle to the threaded fitting (preventing it from coming loose during the mash) but not glue the extension to the middle of the manifold. You can first screw in the extension, then slightly flex it upward to put it into the manifold...

They definitely got loose until I glued some of the connections and screwed some of the others. I tried to only glue connections that would still allow me to clean it by running a brush through it if it became necessary. Below is a pic of it finished, if it isn't screwed at the joint it's...