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I ferment all of my beers in plastic buckets and always leave them in primary for a minimum of two weeks and usually longer. I have never had a problem with my beers, the flavor is good and I have never had one get infected. There is no reason to get in a hurry to bottle or keg, just relax and...

I'm serious when I say this, let those bottles sit for a couple of months and then try them, they will probably taste a whole lot better after they age for a while.

That's right, and when I'm out on the patio brewing or in the garage fussing over my beer as it ferments and conditions, I'm at home and staying out of trouble. I can now brew as much as I want to and never get any argument from my wife at all, cost has ceased to be a barrier. :mug:

When confronted by my SWMBO about all of my beer making and storage equipment, I knew that arguing the merits of beer would be useless, instead, I use an appeal to her sensibility. I told her that while most guys my age are busy chasing young blondes and buying sports cars, I on the otherhand...

If you have smaller posts that is usually an 11/16 wrench, if you have the star shaped ones then they usually can be removed with a 7/8 box end or deep socket with 12 point.

Work on hitting your temps closer and then make sure you drain off your liquid slowly to allow more sugars to leach out of the grains.

It's a Harley, the #1 motorcycle in the world, and for good reason...:ban:

I don't bother with secondary either. I just leave it in the fermenter until it starts to clear, rack to the keg, let it sit for a few weeks, blow the bottom out of the keg to clear out the trub. Once the beer is carbonated, I might get some sediment in the first couple of glasses but after...

I have four cornies and I keep a 10# inside of my kegerator to supply the normal delivery and storage pressures. I also have a 20# that I keep outside for purging, line cleaning, force carbonating etc. I filled both of them around the beginning of this year and don't expect to have to fill...

Here's pic of my ride, it's a 2008 Harley Davidson Road King. 1584 CC's, fuel injection, cruise control, six gallon tank, six speed tranny, the whole package. It's great around town and feels even better out on the open road. You have to be going about 70 to even put it in high gear but it...

It sounds like they are using the Marris Otter as a specialty grain. All you need to do is crush it with a rolling pin or something and then steep it in the water at a temperature not higher than 170 degrees. It will add flavor and color to the water as well as give your beer some body.

That's a great idea, I'm going to have to give that a try. One question though, you don't have problems with dye from the fabric getting into the wort when you boil them?

I haven't tried coffee filters but I tie my hops up in cheese cloth before I toss them in the boil. That works really well to contain the mess.

Very true! In my opinion, brewing is brewing and everyone should respect that. I brew extract, PM and AG depending on how I want that batch to turn out and how much time and money I want to invest in creating it. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a good extract brew and I have tasted...

Let's not forget, brewing is brewing! If you like what comes out of the pot, then it's all good. I've had to put a keg of beer that cost $30 down the drain because it tasted so bad no one would drink it. If you can play around for $10 and come up with a good drinkable beer then that sure...

When I brew with DME I always use a full boil but I don't use a hard boil. The DME has already been boiled so a light boil works just fine. This prevents carmelizing the sugars and helps to keep the color lighter. Most of my extract beers are just a little more than a straw color, except my...

Assuming that you are going to ferment about 5.5 gallons of wort, this would probably make a good beer. Your OG should be around 1.050 and assuming that it ferments to 1.010 you should have an ABV of around 5.2 or so. If you are want to lighten that up a bit just use about a pound less of the DME.

Wow...that's nice and clear. I usually end up with a little haze in mine...doesn't affect the taste so I never worry about it.

The WY 2112 for California Lagers will give a lager taste at temps up to 65. I used it in some lager that I feremented at around 60 to 65 and it came out great.

Another place you might want to look at for bulk malts is Wind River Brewing Company. I'm not sure which one would offer the best terms but it might be worth looking into. http://www.windriverbrew.com/grain.html