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Thanks for all your help again! Regarding the number of elements: I am not recirculating this water, and the cooler is long and narrow. I figured two shorter elements, staggered on either side, will reduce the likelihood of hot/cold spots.

This took longer than I anticipated, but I think I found the equipment I need. Please let me know if this is out of line. The key is: 1. American LED-gible SW-2837-420 22mm 2 Position Selector Switch: Amazon 2. Packard C240C 2 pole 40A, 208/240V Contactor: Amazon 3. SYL-2352 1/16 DIN PID Temp...

I guess that was my concern: in my mind, I wanted the SSR to act as a disconnect, not as a power regulator, so to speak. I think with the combo of a switch-actuated contactor upstream of the SSR and the GFCI (and the actual wall plug), we should have power disconnect covered. Thanks for the...

After thinking about it some more today, I am definitely agreeing with you on this point. My only frame of reference with Temperature controllers is my Ranco on my lagering fridge. Originally assumed this project would be very similar in sophistication, but you've made some good arguments as to...

FuzzeWuzze: thank you for your insight and the assistance! Though I appreciate simplicity, I appreciate not being electrocuted or burning the house down more. :) I've actually been eyeing an auber PID (SYL-1512A) instead of the STC-1000 today, so that solves the slow response problem. That PID...

Some of my comments aren't making it to this thread, so Sorry for the confusion: I have not decided on a temperature controller yet, though it seems that I need to decide on one, since that has a bearing on the type of relay used. I am leaning toward a simpler device, probably an STC 1000 as...

Those are great suggestions! I will check on my space requirements for a separate hot water heater. Failing that, I think a PID may be a little too sophisticated for what I'm trying to do here, so a regular contact relay could suffice. As far as the water heater thermostats ar concerned...I'll...

Are you saying to get a temperature controller that runs off 240V, or are you suggesting I run one hot, 120V leg from the 240V circuit through the controller to power it? Would this create an unbalanced load? Would I risk frying the controller in that situation? Sorry for all the questions...

I don't doubt you, as I've seen other diagrams as you describe: with a relay on just one hot leg of the 240V. I'm afraid to do this because I don't fully understand how that's safe. Wouldn't we still get 120V of juice to the element through the other hot leg? Can you (or anyone else on this...

I don't doubt you. I have seen other diagrams set up as you describe: using the relay on only one leg of the 240V circuit. I don't understand how that can completely shut off the flow of energy to the element...wouldn't we still get 120V of juice going through the other hot leg? Could you...

I am building an electric HLT, using a 160 qt cooler and water heater elements. I would like feedback on the attached design; I have some amateur wiring experience (service to my wood shop, rewiring motors, etc), but am certainly not a pro electrician. Are there any critical wiring mistakes...