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BS in Medical Technology (never used), retired Naval Flight Officer, now mentally abuse young children for a living (middle school). And you wonder why I drink!

It's all good!! Thank you HBT and the wonderful sponsors.

Have bottled several batches now (about a dozen all grain) and all of them have carb'ed up with no problem. My question is what effects the bubble size? It seems that early beers seem to have larger size bubbles and longer aged beers have smaller ones. I understand that head retention is related...

Being in MI gets colder than CA (not so much this year), but I got a ceramic heater for the fridge in an unheated pole barn where I brew. Moves the air and keeps a constant temp with single controller. Cold crashing is as simple as removing the fermentor from the fridge. Bottling in the cold is...

Thanks Yooper, My only concern was the low temps and resulting increase of pressure just due to warming up along with the CO2 from conditioning. The most that could happen would be a bottle bomb or a more carbonated beer. As it happens, I am bottling your DFH60 clone which has rapidly become...

Cooler temps are here and my "beer barn" is not heated. In BeerSmith you can adjust the amount of priming sugar based on beer temp. Will I run into a problem bottling the beer at 47* then bringing that bottled beer into the basement for conditioning @ 65-70*? It seems like there shouldn't be...

Discnjh you are obviously correct in the too little headspace; now I have an excuse to get a bigger vessel so I do have enough headspace. :D I have a controller on the fridge so she stays pretty consistently at the 66-67* mark. I guess I could chill those little yeasties down a bit, but still...

Don't think it is too little headspace since it is 5.25 on a 6.5 conical. No mess since everything ended up in the bubbler container. Did get hop residue all 3 ft to the end of the blow off tube. For whatever reason, it seems this beer makes the yeast go wild. Yooper's Doghead fish 60 IPA clone...

Thanks. I am still new to this hobby jumping right to all grain and trying to read anything and everything I can. Still there are questions and I thank the "old hands" for being patient with the noob. :mug:

I have brewed two 5 gal all grain batches of the Dogfish 60 IPA clone with an OG of 1.068-1.070 using WLP001 with a 1 liter starter at 67* and good temp control. Both times the 3ft long 1" blow off tube has done the trick, but I wound up with a 1/4" to 1/2" of yeast in the bottom of the blow off...

I use my refractometer exclusively. I calibrate it before each use with distilled H2O for the ambient temp since it is adjustable (The brew barn has some major swings over the course of the year). Run the numbers in BeerSmith for post fermentation and works like a charm. Less beer waste and more...

The basement is perfect upper 60's or lower 70's depending on placement. So far all of the beers have carb'ed up great sitting quietly down there in the dark. I try to forget about them, but I can hear them calling my name after just a week or two. Really appreciate the quick response!

To the basement it is. It will get stirred up a bit on transport (both ways), but that shouldn't be a biggie. The cooler temps in the barn will "cold" crash it. I have been adjusting my sugar for the cooler temps per BeerSmith. They then come back to the basement for aging and conditioning.

Have an IPA that is already down to 1.009 from 1.070 using WLP001. Have dry hopped, but am brewing another beer. Problem is, there is no room in the fermentator. The brew barn temp is in the upper 40's to low 50's. Would it be ok to continue to dry hop at those temps for a week or should I bring...

Fermenting an IPA right now. Good thing I had the blow off tube on or there would have been major issues. As it is, I have about a quarter inch of yeast in the bottom of the Starsan (poor little guys gave their lives for me) and had krausen 3/4 of the way down the 1" tube. Most vigorous...

+1 to Bobby on all his merchandise; responds and takes care of costumers! The refractometer is great. I have found that since you only need a couple of drops you don't have to fill the bulb and by the time you place the drops on the lens and place the cover to read you are at the ambient temp...

A cheap and simple way to avoid the oxidation issue (should you choose to secondary) is to use the CO2 cartridges you find at any bike shop. They are cheap and easy to use and since CO2 is heavier than "normal" air couple of squirts and you have an environment similar to yeast CO2.

Relax Don't Worry. Have A Home Brew. You need a hydrometer for the Specific Gravity reading, pull off some of your beer and float the hydrometer in it. Read where the beer meets the line and you have your SG or gravity.

Long but works: GYHOOYAATS Get Your Head Out Of Your A## And Think Stupid

How do you know when your yeast has settled out in one of these? You can see inside and just because you dump the trub/cake you can't see level in relationship to racking port or how clear the beer is.