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The coil functions like a switch. When current is applied, it closes, letting current flow to the other side.

I don't see any mistake on the sketch. I know it's a pain in the ass, but I would test 1 component at a time. At first, I would just connect the main contactor, with the main switch. Does that work? Does the main contactor switch? Now connect the next contactor and test again…and so on. You...

The LED will be on when the switch is in ON position. The alarm buzzer will only be activated if the alarm switch is in ON position and the HLT PID is triggering an alarm.

So it's working now?

Have a look at the wire diagram on how to wire the selector switch.

Check this for the pump switches: https://skrilnetz.net/E-HERMS/control-panel-qa/how-to-wire-the-pump-switch-with-integrated-led/

Hi there! 7amp, 8amp, 10amp fuse, it does not matter! We are just protecting the wires which can handle much more. Try to get a fuse between 7 and 10amps. What is tripping? The main breaker, the GFCI breaker? You should test the panel step by step. Connect only the main power contactor and...

Open up a new thread, posting more information and pictures. I will help to troubleshoot were I can and I'm sure other people will do the same.

No worries, I get your point. I hope kid #2 is fine!

You can check out my control panel build and use the instructions without paying a cent. The PDF contains more detailed wiring instructions, but you can build the panel without it. If you check the parts and diagrams, you'll see that this control panel is not the same as the the Electric Brewery...

Fellow brewers, The last few months I was working on an eBook on how to build an electric brewery. I finally finished it and the PDF is available here. More information can be found on my blog. It covers the complete control panel build, kettle weldless connections, complete part list so you...

A cheap enclosure, like mine, should be around $15. You could use plastic or even wood, but as a real enclosure is cheap, I would go for a real box. You will need to use a 3rd terminal strip as ground strip if your panel is other then metal and without a ground post.

A back plate is not needed. I used screws to attach the components to the back. If you attach the control panel to a wall, the screws on the back won't matter.

A standard dryer plug (4 wires) and 10 AWG wire can be used in combination with a 240V/30AMP receptacle. Don’t forget the GFCI breaker! The kegs are looking great! Sure, that will work. I brew 5 to 10 gal batches and that works perfectly. The type of kettle is not that important, the false...

I feel you. My SPA panel has a 50 AMP breaker. I found a used one on amazon, but there are not a lot of 30 AMP SPA panels. If you don't need the 50 AMP receptacle for other stuff, it could be cheaper to replace the 50 AMP breaker with a 30 AMP GFCI breaker.

Yeah, I did not cover the power source… soon I will release a 70 pages PDF, covering the power source, and all other stuff needed for the E-HERMS build. My panel is connected to a SPA panel (GFCI breaker) and the SPA panel is connected to a 30 AMP breaker in the main panel. If you are happy...

I did not build my cables. I wanted to, but I did not find the time to do it. I ordered 8’ cables form Auber. I think that the DSPR1 is great for the boil. It’s simple, not expensive and just does what it should. I don’t need anything else for the boil. I put it at 100% till the wort is...

Good catch! I did not realize that the RTD sensors come with the panel mounts. Now I have 2 extra panel mounts. You can pick them up if you like! ;)

You will find that in local electrical supplies, like where contractors buy their stuff. Mine was about $13 (USD).

If all is done as below, then there is no current on the receptacle if there is no current on the light indicator as they are wired in parallel. Do you hear the contactor switching when turning the selector switch left and right? The diagram is simple. Just follow every connection with...