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Man, Gadjobrinus, I'm not sure if you're just impulsive or fickle. If you want to vacillate some more, I assume you have already checked out this Motorized Grain Mills thread. I don't know why you would want a separate AC motor and gear reducer at twice the cost or more than the DC motor you...

Absolutely! I've bought a bunch of equipment I didn't really need because it was part of a package deal I couldn't pass up. Still have some, or have turned around and sold or given away some. Best deal was probably a kegerator witth a 1/2 BBL Sanke keg for $50; returned the keg for the $50...

I'm not exactly sure where the Hilton is, but Max Lager's is probably within walking distance or a very short Uber ride. Brewpub with great beer, including GABF medalist, and pub to upscale food. The places already mentioned in L5P and Decatur are right off the MARTA East line.

I agree completely. I understand that many of the comments against a general ratio argument are geared to the many novices that have inquired about this subject with emphasis on ratio only, judging by the emphatic responses by yourself and several others. I know that the actual concentrations...

Gadjobrinus, hopefully you're just trying to be funny (but failing). 100 chloride and 150 sulfate is pretty explicit. If it makes you feel better, Brun Water calculation assesses the levels for my last brew as 106:155. Anything in the ballpark is probably good enough. My primary point is...

Hey, I used my drill for several years. I t worked fine, but I had to hold it during the whole milling process, and I had to control the speed by "feel". It's not a necessity, but it's nice to just dump the grains and come back later after doing other things.

Man, you're keeping me busy. I'll do my best to answer the many questions. Hey I set myself up for this. I meant personal safety, but giving the motor its longest life is a secondary factor as well. A project box is probably recommended, to keep the 120VAC wiring safe and to minimize exposure...

No, the smoothing capacitor is needed. Without it, you don't have DC, but rectified AC, as shown in the AC Power Rectified Graph in your referenced tutorial. You want the AC Power Smoothed Graph. A DC motor can operate from the rectified AC, but will perform better and be more efficient with...

Actually, I've done ~100 ppm chloride and 150 ppm of sulfate. I'm certainly not qualified to debate with one of the gurus on this subject, but I can't say I've ever had a session IPA with too much body. The biggest challenge is adding body without ABV and avoiding a bitter hop bomb. Realize...

Don't feel stupid or bad. I've been doing this stuff for 36 years, so I have a slight advantage. What augie has suggested is basically what you're asking about, except it's even simpler than your example. It's just a light dimmer (variable resistor or potentiometer/pot) to vary/reduce the...

I use something closer to 1:1, maybe 100-150 ppm each. Results have been excellent. I don't want too sharp a bitterness in a session IPA. (I'll check when I get home to make sure I haven't misspoken.)

Good to hear it's working reliably for you. There's no overheating in the diode bridge because the load current is only ~3A max. Even without that heatsink, that huge bridge could easily dissipate the few Watts. The heat issue (assuming the variable pot controlling the voltage is dropping the...

You can get away with something smaller than a 50A/1000V bridge, but at $2.09, just go with it (assuming your Chinese part will be reliable). Williams still has the same photo, so I don't know if they've made a change, but they used to advertise this as 180 Hz when they first released it. I...

As augie says, you're good with that motor. I really suggest you go with the L075, as it has 3 prongs, whereas the L070 has only 2, thus ~2:1 difference in torque. You'd probably be OK with the L070, but I'd just be more conservative. The price on these couplings from Amazon is all over...

Sounds like you figured it out, but yes, AC motors run at 1750 and DC motors at ~2500rpm. You need to use either a pulley system or gear reducer to drop the speed and increase the torque. My opinion is that a "gearmotor", motor with integrated gear reducer is the most economical option...

Yes, the Lovejoys (coupling hubs) allow you to pair up almost any size shafts. You'll buy a size L075 hub with a 5/8 bore and appropriate keyway to attach to the motor and a hub with a 12mm bore and no keyway to attach to the mill, and then the 10621 solid spider to mate them. I'd wait until...

Efficiency is highest at max voltage, and lowers as the voltage drops. But it's not the motor, which should look like a constant current load. Therefore, its power and thus heat is proportional to voltage (and speed). But since it's rated for that current and power, it shouldn't get too hot...

To defend Silentdrinker, maybe he didn't pay sufficient attention to Jayjay1976's particular comments about his setup, but I think his general comment is valid. If you're going to use 2 110V heaters, you just need to be sure that you have 2 outlets on separate breakers. Sounds like this is a...

I'm not sure how you quantify this as a PWM power supply. Variable inefficient linear supply yes, but PWM? As long as you don't have a thermal problem, then this would still work, since the DC gearmotor (gear reduction motor) speed is simply controlled by the variable DC supply voltage. PWM...

I often found that the suffix on the Bodine motors didn't correspond to a unique model and gear ratio, but mine was a -E2, and 250 rpm, not -E3 & 125 rpm. So mine is the same with 2X the (max) rpm. The 0791 model controller is what I bought. Regarding speed, I never run my mill at full...