Search results

I have found a used remote cooler that is used for chilling up to 4 beer lines at events for a great price. It is more of a glorified jockey box in that it will chill 4 beer lines, but is not intended to pump glycol to an external fermenter. There is a pump to circulate the water/glycol bath...

I found a single 12-pack in Franklin, NC on Friday, but it is still not available in GA yet.

How do you heat these? Are elements internal or external?

And how are you purging the keg with the DH? Are simply assuming that you are passing enough CO2 from the fermentation to purge a keg full of O2? You can never purge a keg full of O2 by mixing in CO2. You will continue to reduce the percent of O2, but cannot eliminate it, since the gasses mix.

OD 21mm CS 3mm (15mm ID) I ordered a bunch from Aliexpress, and they are the same size as the ones from Spike. I also confirmed dimensions of both with calipers.

That is a very high flow rate, ~3.5X what I have used for several years on my similarly sized 20G Spike kettle. My discharge is a little on the hotter side at ~150°F/65°C. It is also possible that the 2" tubing leads to more efficient cooling. Why did you add the extension below the Tee...

That is what I have done for the two IPAs I have made since I got my CF10. Hop presence is far better than I ever achieved prior to this purchase. Sorry, I was referring to dry hops. CO2 would rouse the yeast, but I agree that I have never had a need to do so.

Also, all those accessories add up to a lot of $$$. Consider ordering things you can wait a little time on like extra clamps and gaskets or even sight glasses from Alibaba. After I got my CF10 last fall, I ended up ordering $100+ of accessories from Spike and at least as much other more...

Try negotiating with Spike to remove the thermometer and credit you. It is idiotic that they include this expensive accessory in the baseline and make you buy a thermowell as an addition. Any automated control needs a thermowell instead of a useless thermometer.

I just kegged the 3rd brew with my CF10. I drained and cleaned all the solids (lots of hops for an IPA), and then ran the CIP with mu Chugger. I also have a homemade keg washer with a 1/3 HP sump pump like itsnotrequired, but I have no issue with the Chugger. No, it doesn't spray down the...

Most are rated up to something like 120-125°F (basically hot tap water). They cannot withstand heat anywhere near what a Chugger/March/Blichmann can.

The best suggestion I have seen here is to just swap the thermowell and sample port. If you use the thermometer, then this might not work or may be less advantageous. Guess I should have refreshed. Needless to say, I agree.

Oh, I understand. I am moderately familiar with Thing 1, and I had pretty much given up on trying to control an IC3500. Then I was at my LHBS and he says he controls his 110V/1800W induction plate with an Inkbird controller. His is obviously manual and returns to its previous state when...

Damn you, IslandLizard, at $155 & free shipping, I couldn't pass up buying a 2nd. I paid $170 + 7.50 shipping 5 1/2 years ago for mine, which is still running strong. Maybe I can use this as an opportunity to look into hacking the original for PID control and my external temp probe.

Before I recently bought a CF10, I was pressure fermenting with the original 35L Fermonster. That does have a built-in PRV, but I would run the gas ball valve to purge kegs filled with sanitizer, almost always 2 daisy-chained. I then installed the spunding valve at the gas out of the 2nd...

I have had a MM2 for 8 years, and have used a Bodine DC motor to drive it the past 5. I am pretty sure I mounted the supports to spec, but had problems for a few years with grain getting stuck and keeping the non-driven roller from turning. I added some fender washers as shown to keep grain...

I can't give you a picture for a few days, but I converted a rolling microwave cart with a butcher block top. I think it was a Craigslist purchase that my wife let me "destroy". Check this old thread for plenty of ideas...

I don't know anything about your poor lid fit, but a short term workaround may be adding a layer of plastic wrap under the lid to improve the seal.

It is difficult to reduce your pressure by closing down the valve on the water supply. That reinforced hose should definitely work, but it looks like you would need several fittings to make it work. It would probably be easier and cheaper to buy some reinforced hose (or if the piece on your...

It worked for me, but try this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bucket-Companion-5-gal-and-3-5-gal-Screw-Top-Bucket-Lid-in-Black-LD5GRLBK006/303808738