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Agreed. Where does the water enter the manifold? From what You've shown,, I'd make slits on the six parallel bars. At least that's what I did! My water enters the center of the manifold from above (water comes into a tee, which acts as the middle of an 'H' cause by two parallel channels)...

In the Canadian stores, it's in the electrical sections near the gang boxes. http://m.homedepot.ca/Product/productdetails.aspx?ProductId=954584&lang=EN

That is the strain relief I use. I bought it for a couple bucks at HD. Not 100% waterproof, but if I threw a bucket of water onto it I doubt anything would get in. With that said, I'm not gonna try!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012ELTK8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 I bought this one. A little on the expensive side, but it is 10ft which gives a ton of slack.

Secondaries are overrated. Personally I just keep my beers in the primary for 3-4 weeks. I only secondary if I'm dry hopping or fruiting my beers. It's just another opportunity to invite infection and oxidation in to your beer!

That's it! From my experience they have great customer service but others have reported problems with them delivering when no one is there to accept the package. My recommendation is to put a comment giving permission for someone else other than the cardholder to sign, or make sure you are home...

I'd say the vast majority of people on here went with auber. You know the quality you are getting and where it was made. For the $5 difference you will pay, I figure the auber product is more worthwhile. The auber one is only $16. Some of the Japanese/Chinese electronics have short lifetimes...

+1

Here is the one I bought. Rated for 20A http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00917YZMW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 This is what I use (/will use when it arrives) for the power to my control box. My element has a 12ga power cord that connects to the element inside a gang box. On the other...

It really just depends on what the amperage through your system is. I only need the 30A contractor, but if you have two element on at the same time you will need 40-50A contractors

You didn't, I was just making sure! I'm building a similar set up and that's why I made the comment. I'll learn from your mistakes :D

You mean during lautering that you burn out your element right? Not during recirc.

Although I'm currently in the midst of receiving my parts, I can answer your question from what I've gathered from other posters. You keep the valve on the outlet of the MT fully open, and slightly open the valve on the OUTLET of the pump. It's the valve on the outlet that will allow you to...

If you are using one element, you technically only need a single SSR. However, the contractor downstream of the SSR is used as a secondary safety, as SSRs tend to fail closed (allowing electricity to pass through it. A mechanical relay will prevent this. You will need another contractor (not...

Thursday will be good, a couple days is plenty of time. Almost everyone starts out worrying too much! That's why the veterans on this forum love the saying RDWHAHB! It's pretty hard to screw up a beer, honestly. The most important factor is to make sure everything is sanitized properly. If...

Also, yeast strains with high attenuation tend to make the beers finish dryer (i.e. with less residual sugar, like the beer with a 1.005 FG). A high mash temp will create more unfermentable sugars. This results in a higher FG. A thicker mash makes the wort less fermentable. I think this...

Sparge volumes are not directly dependent upon amounts of grain used. For example, if you mash with 1.25 qt/lb, or 1.5qt/lb, your sparge volumes will be different as your first runnings will contain different amounts. Come to think of it, 0.5gal per pound of grain doesn't make sense. For a big...

My current layout is a pretty simple 5gal AG system. 10gal cooler MLT with a cpvc manifold that i cut slits in. two 8.5 gal SS pots, the HLT has a SS weldles bulkhead barb, a sight glass, and a thermometer installed. BK just has a bulkhead w/ barb. Everything is done by gravity... but it's worse...

I think I'm going to go ahead and install a 0.25A fast acting fuse anyways for the PID, a 2A slow acting fuse for the pump, and a 20A fuse to protect the panel wiring (I've decided to buy everything rated to 20A and use 12AWG). If the PID has an internal fuse, why not blow a $1 fuse instead of...

Why isn't the PID fuse necessary? I see them in most wiring diagrams. Even with a 15A breaker or fuse, the PID could get blown if it pulled just a couple amps (or that's what I've been led to believe). The 15A fuse you recommended, would that go before the main power switch and H,N,G buses...