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The larger the delta, the faster the mash temp will rise. Q=m*cp*deltaT (Q is rate of heat transfer, m is wort flow rate, cp is the heat capacity of wort, delta T is the different between HLT and wort temp). The larger the difference in the HLT temp and wort temp, the greater the heat...

I would normally agree, but all of these 'state' that they are LWD, so I assume there is no chance of scorching (plus, with RIMS it isn't usually as big of a problem). So really, I'm wondering if the extra length of heater that the wort passes over (about 1-1/4") would be more beneficial that an...

You don't really need two, but the second works as a digital thermometer. All it really does is reduce overshoot by limiting HLT temps. A digital thermometer, or even a bi-metal thermometer at that, costs about 40-50. That's as much as a PID anyways. Basically the difference is the cost of a...

After researching, I answered most of those questions. One thing I haven't found is how close the probe can be to the heater element without skewing readings (locally the temp is going to be higher than the average bulk temp). Lastly, would it be more worthwhile to have an extra 1.5" of...

You can do either one, but you still need the second PID to make it reach SP effectively. If you use the HLT, you don't want to set it to srt point (SP), as this will take a really long time to hit your temp. You'd likely put it a few degrees above, then once the HEX out reaches mash temp, drop...

I was right with you an hour ago. The PID in the HLT is usually used to a) give a temp reading b) sets the upper limit for the HLT for step mashes. E.g you want to go from 152 to mash out. You change the SP to 165 ish. The heater goes on full blast. By the time the wort reaches 165, HLT is...

I was thinking about that. Obviously, this would be less of a problem if a copper HEX is used due to its higher thermal conductivity (wrt stainless steel). When you say monitor, do you mean have 1PID, and a thermometer? Or 2 PIDs, set HEX out to desired mash temp, and set HLT temp to a SP...

Point well taken, it does make the system more automatic and fool proof!

Fair enough. I guess installing a bi-metal thermometer could serve the same purpose as the 'dumb' PID. And wouldn't a PID with manual mode be a fancier way of using the pot as described in my previous post? Thanks!

I too have heard that the HEX out is a more reliable indicator of the mash temp, although I personally have no evidence to support it. I don't see the need for two PID's or temperature probes. Can someone please enlighten me? This is the way I see it... For strike water: connect water out to...

Thanks for all of your replies, they've been very helpful! I talked with a CS rep from amazon, and they agreed to send me a new one without having to send it back (I picked it up in Niagara Falls, and came back to southern Ontario). I'm happy I don't need to drive 1.5hrs to just mail the damned...

Hey everyone, I ran in to a problem when all of my parts for my RIMS set up arrived. I bought a Camco 1500W, 120V element as I wanted to use a normal 20A circuit comfortably. When the parts arrived, the element didn't fit in to my 1" bushing. Considering the element has 1" threads, this is...

Nice! How did you work with the male end? Whenever I see bushings I see that the male end is larger than the female end (I.e 3/4" x 1/2" is MPT then FPT) Do you clean your pots with filtered water? That sounds like a waste, but I guess these cheap filters have lifetimes on the thousands of...

Why have none of these DIY filters used camlock or other forms of quick disconnects? I plan on doing a water filter set up, but I would like it to be stationary and attached to my brew stand. This would require QD's so that the hoses can be disconnected when not in use. Is the reason for not...

Well then, that's a waste of shiny brewery!

To me, it looks like some locations have a long ways to travel to reach the far corners. It'll definitely work, and if you're batch sparging you won't have a problem either. I thin ideally, you would want a piece of pipe perpendicular to your parallel pipes. The tee would feed into this pipe...

But copper is cheaper, easier to weld, and draws attention! I agree it doesn't make much sense, but I'm always attracted to the copper tanks! It's probably good for business, provides the bling factor!

There isn't much you can really do in terms of getting that metal material back... Is this a weldless sight glass kit? if so, install the silicone O-ring/gasket, and put on the locknut. See if it can hold water and create a seal. Otherwise, you might need to look into getting the sightglass...

What's the power requirement to keep water boiling? Will two 1500W be able to get your 6-7gal wort to a boil? Just concerned that you may put everything together and barely get a boil going. On that note, how much does it take to get 12gal to a boil? That seems like an awful lot of power.

In that case, it isn't necessary to have even fluid draining. With batch sparging, there is a negligible amount of path favoring for the liquid. With that being said, it's always good to plan for the future, as you may always upgrade to a continuous sparge set up. Note: you do NOT need a sparge...