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Hmm. Not quite what you're looking for. You might have to call that phone number for the supplier from the lake source. Here's what mine looks like, maybe it'll help you with your questions. Also, might seem like a big step for a new brewer, but if you can read the information over at...

Regular chlorine in tap water will dissapate if the water is left standing in an open container overnight. Chloramine requires the campden tablets, or a pinch of KMBS or NaMBS to remove it. I typically use the KMBS as I have several bags of it lying around from wine making. Check your...

Small thing I've discovered; I work in Metric being Canadian. I changed the display to C in the settings control. No problem, although the display will still only resolve to a single degree, so technically staying in Fahrenheit is more precise (1 degree F being about 1/2 of 1 degree C)...

The manual is a bit overwhelming, but there are only about 2 or 3 pages that cover the stuff you really need to get started. The diagrams actually are pretty detailed and show you what you should see as you go through the steps. The EZBoilDSPR320 they now include in the Cube also has a lot of...

Fortunately Kane at Auber has been awesome at responding to my questions and helped me sort it all out. I ended up with 2 probes and one cable to swap between them. One probe at the outflow of the HERMS the other one in the boil kettle. I ran dry (wet?) run today with a pretend mash...

Hot water definitely sanitizes. Hence autoclaves. Just depends how hot for how long... In spite of the disgusting goo I found, I've never actually had an infection. I started brewing in '84 ;-) Even went through a phase of using only hot tap water and detergent to "sanitize" my equipment...

I've NEVER cleaned my ball-valves other than to run some Oxyclean/TSP through the whole system. Like, 5-6years at least. Until today. Yeeesh.... I was pulling a few things apart as I swap over to electric, and thought, "what the hell let's get at those valves too...". I'd heard some say they...

Well, I'm leaning towards the Auber. I like the breaker switch and dual pump control and the EZBoil control unit. I'm still trying to figure out the (RTD) temperature probes. I currently have a thermowell in my HLT and at the outflow from the HERMS coil. I just throw a bare probe wire (Therma...

I posted a while ago about my plans to move to electric from propane. I've currently got a 3v HERMS system running on manual propane with a Themopen probe in each vessel. I usually heat my HLT to strike temp, transfer the volume to the MLT and monitor the temp there while recirculating through...

Parting it out though, still not cheap. Running $300 already before wiring, connectors and busses. I hope to salvage some parts from my propane controller box, but most of it was running on 120v AC and 24VDC and may not be compatible.

True enough. Bad thread title. Maybe better would be Am I Lazy? in that I was feeling like avoiding the work of building another panel to control a brewery component and was thinking of just buying my way in this time. Doug293cz made it apparent that the new build is probably the smart move.

Sure, understood. What I've done in the past, is to place my MLT probe in the inflow to the MLT from the HERMS coil, rather than in the middle of the MLT. This allows for fairly rapid response to temperature increase and usually keeps my temps pretty stable. And that was with propane which is...

Hmmm, I thought the whole point of a PID was that it would compensate for the lag and avoid overshoot? That is, it mimics what I already do manually (but better) by goosing the HLT burner as needed to control the mash temp. To be clear, I'd only be switching the probe over once - i.e. once the...

What type of fuses would you suggest using? Is it possible to move the probe of the RTD sensors from one thermowell to another? I'd like to be able to bring my HLT to mash-in temp, then switch the probe over to the MLT thermowell to control mash temp through my HERMS. Chris

And they are a little more pricey if I recall.

Thanks! I like how you've isolated the element. I would have thought that the SSR would control both Line 1 and Line 2, but obviously I see now that it would not. It seems if you're running the the power to your Main Power Switch & Contactor through first the pump switch and then the Element...

I'm considering apostasy.... I've been brewing with propane for probably 15 years, but am considering a switch to electric. At least the propane guys probably don't even read this thread, I should be safe. I've been using little STC-100s forever, got 4 or 5 of them around for controlling my...

I'm seriously contemplating the switch to 240 volt electric for my HLT. My attempts at a home-built heatstick are dismal, leaking 120v failures. I figure might as well go whole hog at 5500W. If that works well, propane may disappear entirely. :) What I want - Temperature control on the HLT. I'm...

My solution to this was to take a 3" strip off a ScotchBrite pad and wrap it around the end of a wooden dowel. I secured it to the dowel with some staples from a staplegun and then tapped them flush as I could with a hammer to prevent the metal scraping the inside of the spear. Works great!

I have been shamed 'into submission. I have played around with the equipment profile and my mash profile to what seems to match my numbers. I had to adjust my MT specific heat capacity and some of my equipment losses, but it now seems to be close to what I achieve. Thanks for the nudging! Now...