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If you purge your filter and lines you eliminate the possibility of oxidizing your beer with the filter. I could imagine pushing beer through a filter that was full of air would really expedite oxidation... but I'm just guessing here.

BS needs to know the volume of the "dead space" in order to accurately calculate the required strike, sparge, preboil, batch volumes. Notice that when you change the those volumes in the equipment profile that the predicted gravities for a given recipe will change.

Did you add your measurement for space under the false bottom to "Mash Tun Addtion" or "Lauter Tun Losses" I'd think it should be in addition. I imagine you have it set as losses so BS is adding extra water to compensate but 'thinks' it's not recoverable, but since it's just a false bottom it...

LoDo folks would have you pitch the yeast asap and/or oxygenate at lower temperatures to avoid oxidation... just throwing that out there.

What will it read against a 1.040 starter wort now?

The homebrewing community needs to band together and convert to brix/plato. Plato 2017! ... and the metric system.

Like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F6BL11U/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 Does steam not bother these?

Does this need an exhaust fan? If so do you have any examples of that? And/or links to fans used successfully?

This links don't appear to be available to us non-members

I remember a few months ago that you were experimenting with just a cracked lid during a boil, about an inch or so. What's your procedure now?

I know exactly how you feel... Looks like I'm probably going to have to make a brundog steam condenser super ejector thingamabob soon.

Oops, you posted before I edited my last post, the heating element will simply be ssvr with a knob for some sweet ass analog control! I've discovered it's already been done in the "stilldragon" controller. There are some additional pics in my previous post. My current controller uses that same...

Guys, I think there is a misunderstanding! I'm talking about using all electrical boxes! This is what I'm talking about, this would be for my chugger pump control: Here is a mockup, the electrical box would go all the way through the wood being flush with the front side The stilldragon...

Nice rig, I like it. I hear ya, but I'm not exactly trying to strictly comply with residential building codes in my beer cart. 😉 Though safety is of course rule #1, I'm not forgetting that. Again, I won't have any exposed electrical in the cabinet. As for accessibility I was thinking...

This is what I did. Except mine is 2" pvc -> layer of spray foam -> 3/4" pvc. I only needed room for two beer lines.

Well that's what I mean, everything is contained in electrical outlet boxes just like wiring in our walls. It's not just outlet covers over wood.

Ha! No automation. Though I think I could integrate my arduino/RIMS quite simply, but for now I want to simplify even more. In regard to the wood being no bueno can you elaborate? I've seen people make wooden control panels in the past and I want to clarify that's not what's going on here, any...

I've had this idea nagging me for a little while now, I wanted to see what you guys think: Normally when we talk about going electric 240v this involves hundreds of dollars to into the thousands in sexy lit up control panels with ever expanding automation and electronics and gadgets and the...

Good catch.

@ZmannR2 @JONNYROTTEN just plugging into his welder's receptacle would be a clean solution but it's only three wire outlet. It will depend on how he intends to configure the 120 v side of his sytem, correct? Perhaps that's why OP kept mentioning adding a 120v breaker in one of these panels, but...