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Im using a copper wort chiller but my wort hasn't budged from 80F in the last 30 min. Can I pitch my yeast in order to void the risk of contamination?

Me and my buddies share our batches so we have to order in bulk, plus it saves money. If we want to learn/perfect a stout and a nut brown ale, what are the necessary malts that we'll have to order? So far we have: 2-row Carapils Caramel 60L Victory Chocolate Roasted If I don't enjoy too bitter...

Went ahead and doubled up with two Lifestyles on 'er. At least I know my IPA won't get sypillis if it's floating around my basement

Thank you sir, boom, done!

I just racked to secondary, but I forgot to buy a new stopper for the air lock of the second carboy of beer. Im doing my first 10gal batch, so I've never used a second carboy before.. Is there any temporary alternative for overnight until I can get a new stopper(bung)?

Fine by me. Im ok with either brand on 60L

Im planning on making these beers, but if my water source isn't too crazy low in pH should I add some sort of pH stabilizer? What's do you guys use? It would suck to brew 10gal and it be wasted just cuz I didn't add a little pH stabilizer. Does whirfloc help with pH at all? Sorry, a lot of...

Ok, below is my "volume" profile (this is literally the second time that I've open up my BeerSmith trial version. I have a few questions about the sheet. 1. Is my MLT deadspace really 1 gal? (I didn't see this column when entering my numbers, BeerSmith must have defaulted to it. I think THIS...

Im at work right now, but I'll paste my BeerSmith settings in a couple of hours. I guess Im confused about the whole standard of "1.3qt~ of strike per lb of grain + that I keep seeing. It seemed weird that even though I was attempting a 10gal batch, my 15.5gal keggle was almost over flowing...

I followed the directions on BeerSmith(8.25gal strike water+9gal sparge for 23lbs of grain) but ended up with at least two extra gallons in the keg and a OG of only 1.040 that was supposed to be 1.060. This is the second time that gallons of extra water were to my wort and just about ruined my...

Is it relatively safe to say that I won't get any bad flavors from the slurry? If there is a chance of bad flavors and I wash the yeast first, then direct- pitch it the same day, will the yeast go into "hibernation" and not start out well in the new batch? Also, if my OG is around 1.070 is it...

I've been reading a lot about this and had a question, cause Im a cheapskate. If I harvest the yeast from the primary, wash it and the pitch it in my cooled wort(a new batch of beer), will the yeast still be active? Basically, Im trying to save money by not using a bunch of DME(~$2.50 for a...

By pitching healthy and heavy, does that mean that I can purchase one vial of White Labs #1, let grow for a few days and stir it in heavily thus creating a ton of oxidation? Thanks in advance!! This forum has been a godsend

Ok, so my initial thought was to reduce the time from 6 weeks to 3 weeks. It looks like 4 weeks is a better bet. At the end of the day, Im just hoping the Biofine Clear will reduce my secondary time to 3 days. From what yinz are telling me, it goes like this: 1. (White Labs #1) STARTER yeast the...

Me and two buddies saved for 5 months to go All grain. We did our first 5gal batch, and will attempt our first 10gal batch. We're continuing to brew an IPA/Double IPA. If I 1. first hydrate my yeast(White Labs #1) the night before 2. dry hop the primary after 3 days 3. let primary sit a total...

It's what always pops up when I google rookie questions:) I've found incredibly helpful info on here.