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Your Home Brew Talk sponsor has them here: https://www.buckeyehydro.com/fittings/

The small gac filter on that unit is designed to be used with very slow flow, AFTER the membrane... but that vendor uses it with fast flow as a prefilter as a way to cut costs. No, it is not suitable for chloramine. You want a chloramine specific carbon block, 10" x 2.5" or larger for that...

Chlorine and chloramines will damage your RO membrane, so those contaminants must be treated BEFORE the water reaches the RO membrane. Russ

The plumbing of a softener isn't complicated. One pipe coming in, one pipe going out. One pipe or tube going to an air gap drain, and one small tube connecting the softener valve to the brine tank. Russ

The threads on the tanks are standard (2.5"). From there, everything on the two are different.

Well, if you were an experienced water softener tech, you could take a close look at your system and see if any other parts need to be replaced (my guess is that there are). For a DIY approach, and considering the age of all the components, and that every component is out of warranty, and that...

Plumbing membranes in series (waste from first going to inlet of the second) is how most commercial RO's are plumb. However, commercial RO system have a requirement for 0 Hardness in the feedwater. You'll shorten the second membrane life (because you'll fill it with scale) if you have hardness...

Americana is likely a brand name for the water treatment company that originally sold it to the homeowner - ie., they just put their sticker on it. That is not a brand name of a softener valve.

You can plumb a second membrane in series, BUT only if your water is soft or softened. There is a popular vendor that sells to marine aquarium folks who has convinced them a second "water saver" membrane is suitable for everyone. It's not, but most buyers don't know that. We can do a video...

I'm wondering what the post acid-treatment pH will be. If it's low enough to attack existing scale, is it low enough to attack other things?

Hmm. What is the pH of the treated water? Do you have copper pipes? Brass plumbing fixtures?

Are you talking about a whole-house application, or a point of use sort of thing?

As to your question regarding use of a filter(s) vs a softener. Softeners REMOVE hardness. If you have excessive hardness, you really can't beat a softener - no other "conditioner" or magic magnetic wizbang can do what a softener does. To know if a softener is needed, as mentioned above, you...

You said your water softener leaks... that means it is in need of maintenance and likely a rebuild if it is old. You said regeneration of your softener is triggered by a timer... Geez. Either it is really a cheap low end valve, or it is old as dirt as you mentioned - or both. This is an...

I assume Martin is focusing his comments to the hardness issue.

"It is technically quite soft (based on the levels of Calcium and Magnesium)." A note re some different takes you'll hear re hardness levels. Calcium and magnesium make up nearly all of the Total Hardness @ 223 ppm, or 13 grains per gallon. This puts the water into the "hardest" of the...

Is this well water? Black staining is typically manganese - but the test you chose didn't look at levels of Mn. [solution: whole house softener, if the Mn concentrations are low] Your hardness (20 gpg) is probably ok for brewing, but absolutely not ok for your water heater, dishwasher...

Sweet mother of pearl! Have you considered using RO water? Hopefully you have a whole-house water softener. Russ

Just happened upon this post? Hopefully you contacted us. Did you get this situation squared away? Russ

Or run it through a carbon block.