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I've added a second long hose to the tap, to do split recirculation. The original hose, stuck down one of the malt pipe lift holes, does 'outer recirculation' at maximum flow rate for the whole mash time. Fast flow, reduces base temperature overshoots, and ensures the water outside the malt pipe...

I have the BZ G4 35L, with extension. I prefer a thin mash, and typically my mash water volume = batch volume = 23L, for typically 6% ABV brews. I only very occasionally need the extension for boiling, or for stopping splashes while oxygenating (with a drill whisk). When doing a 16% imperial...

The third method, floating sparge (which is used in many breweries) is more efficient. I've done a floating sparge once in my BZ G4. After I'd forgotten to put in the malt pipe, before adding grain. It gave good results, but meant the process took longer. A floating sparge, is where wort is...

I've seen Juniper (and other) branches being recommended as a filter bed, for improved lautering in Rye beers. While adding flavour. Nordic Rye beers Mika's Rongoteus ('god of rye') recipe is excellent. I've made three batches so far,, but don't bother with a beta-glucan rest at 40°C, anymore.

That must be hard. I'm struggling here, with just a peak daytime temperature of 19°C (66F). Much hotter than a normal May in the Scottish Highlands.

A BZ G4 35L, takes 2400W @230V. A 3kW transformer could easily manage that. I'm in UK, and they're known as site transformers, here. Though they're designed to power 120V tools, off our (nominally) 230V supply, transformers work just as happily either way way round. Don't know what you're...

Compacted grain bed syndrome. Easily acheived by vigorous stirring, or by recirculating before the grain has hydrated. Gently add grain to (submerged) malt pipe, with minimal stirring, just enough to break up dough balls without knocking off attached air bubbles. The trapped air increases grain...

The OP, about four years ago, was wanting to transfer from brew kettle to fermenter. But perhaps he'll be transferring that batch, to Kegs by now.

In the Scottish Highlands, we have the opposite. There's few stores who will deliver here at all. Of those that will, their normal free delivery over £xx doesn't apply, and if your order goes over 13kg, you're hit with double or triple the shipping. So 25kg sacks are out! Annoying, as I live...

Hadn't looked at the date, as it had come up under 'recent posts'. Now taking very great care of it. Having broken my first one after around 30 years use, while hydrometer was removed from tube for cleaning. Found replacement from a shop (that's closed now) who had some "old stock'. No valve...

Try it in tapwater at 20°C or 15°C, depending on what your hydrometer is calibrated to, and see what part of the meniscus is at 1.000. A bigger factor might be the temperature correction factor needed. For mine, the Loxford wine and beer tester, it's +2 for brew at 25°C (77°F). The Loxford is a...

Active yeasts in unfiltered beers can act as biological oxygen scavengers, and extend shelf life by prolonging flavour stability. So hefeweizens & other pale hazy beers, can still have good shelf life. Lever top bottles of my Schneider Weisse, seem just as good over a year from bottling. When...

Maybe try looking for oat husks, that's the name used in the UK. It's much less dense than regular grain, so expect a large bag for the weight.

German wheat beers, are required to have a minimum 50% wheat. Recipes I've tried, used 60% wheat malt. But I reduce it to 55%, to avoid stuck mash/sparge, in an AIO system.

Update: Poor flocculation, and certainly not good as a bottling yeast. After a month,though clear the, bottles still had 1/2 inch layer of loose solids. On pouring, the very bottom yeast layer, just mixed in with everything else.

Hefeweizen (Schneider Weisse recipe) is my go to brew, and I do 2 or 3 23l batches a year. I use Mangrove Jack's M20 Baverian wheat (19°C for 3 days then 22C for 5days), or WHC Banana Split (19°C for 3 days then 24C for 5days). The latter giving more banana. For good flavour, t's important for...

Don't keep it for years! DME is hydroscopic, so will eventually become a solid lump (even in a sealed bag). 4yr after house move, found box containing a couple of bags of rock hard DME. Plastic wrap folds locked in the lumps, so couldn't be emptied. Ended up cutting off wrap ends, then soaking...

Only experience was Mangrove Jack's M54 Californian Lager yeast. Which came with a Californian Common AG kit (from TMM UK) brewed last month. Fermented at 18-20°C (64-68 °F) it certainly gave a clean flavour, with no sulphur apparent an any stage, and cleared well. Will certainly do a larger...

My goto yeast for British pale ales nowadays, is Nottingham. Maybe gives a slight edge/twang, to flavour, but prefer that to flat and dull. Generally better fermented toward lower end of its temperature range (I target room temp 15-17°C). But it's also good for high ABV brews, using higher...