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I'm cold crashing a 5 gallon batch now that is in a 6.5 gallon carboy. I woke up this morning to find the carboy sucking in the vodka from the air lock. I guess my question is, how do you guys handle this? Just keep topping it off? Cold crash only in a secondary? Cold crash in the keg?

This part is a little unclear to me? So you did not drain the mash tun prior to adding your sparge water of 4.5 gallons? I don't have any experience with that method, but it's possible there is room to improve. First, check your thermometer for proper calibration. Second, try draining the...

I use this and it works well. I can see it 20 feet away when I walk into the kitchen...

I spend $20-$27 for grains, hops and yeast. I spend another $8-$9 on bottled spring water.

I always shoot for 68 with an ale yeast. I don't know if that's the most appropriate temperature, but it seems to work fine. The first couple days or active fermentation require a setting in the low 60's to keep the carboy temp strip reading below 70. After that it's usually set for 66-68.

GE mini fridge and a Ranco digital temperature controller. Without that, fermenting would be so much more complicated.

I used spring water in 1 and 2.5 gallon containers from the store. I use the dip tube from my sanke keg to measure volume after draining the MLT and after boiling. The dip tube is marked with gallon increments by means of a dremel tool.

I'll add that a propane burner can be too good. I got a 105,000 BTU King Cooker propane burner....I boiled off almost 3 gallons in an hour on my first round. I'll know to turn the burner down, a lot, on my next batch.

My wonderful father-in-law bought be a Northern Brewer IPA kit for Christmas. It has a 3lb jug of extract to be used for 60 mins, then a 6lb late addition at 15 mins. Can I just use the full amount of extract and boil the full volume of water needed? I've got all the equipment to boil and cool...

Simple photo addition... I used standard vinyl numbering, but applied the backing vs the number itself. Prep time was about an hour....etch time took about 7 minutes including the cleanup :drunk:

I have no experience, but I also believe that just because the flame goes out does not mean that the hops stop reacting to the temp of the wort.

In case the picture doesn't work - http://www.brewsupplies.com/hop_characteristics.htm

What size fermentor? What size batch?

I did measure my preboil gravity, it was right on at 1.043. I'll know next time that my 105,000 BTU burner doesn't need to be fired as high.

I had neighbors come over at the end of my first all grain session with this recipe. I think I'm short a gallon, but failed to measure anything at the end. Why? Good question, I was a little flustered with the audience and just assumed I'd end up with close to what I expected. Oh well, it's...

When you say 'near boiling water', are you saying 200F+?

I'm not even sure I qualify as a batch sparger....but I did use that method on my first all grain batch.

That image is from this thread - click me As far as the vinyl tubing, from what I've seen at multiple stores, the temp rating is 175-180F. From what I understand, if you're just doing a non-pressurized transfer of wort, this should work fine. The only silicone tubing I could find was online...

I soaked mine. Would it have hurt if I didn't?...probably not. I took mash tun apart and soaked the fittings in a bucket, rinsed and installed into the cooler.

Bingo! It can be more complicated than that, but for most basic brews, it's just that simple.