Search results

Last week I rebuilt my heat-stick, this time without the evil Zinc nut. Found a nice chrome nut instead. You can see from my picture that the nut and pipe are shiny chrome, and looks like the base of the element is too. You can also see that using a 1 1/2 x 1 1/4 reducing nut is a better...

Has anyone used Oxo Brite? They sell big tubs of it at my grocery store, and the ingredients (and their website) list only Sodium Percarbonate and Sodium Carbonate. The combination is supposed to be more effective, yes? A better deal than pure percarbonate and no one around here stocks...

So my first cider experiment has gone a little off track. I had limited equipment and skills when I started (and have since pieced out quite a setup). Regardless, I was just following a recipe and not using a hydrometer, and now realize I was really making an apple wine. (5 gals juice plus 4...

OK So I've been to two hardware stores today, and it looks like most of the Slip Nuts that are on the shelf there, separate, are in fact Chrome-plated. (this does not necessarily apply to nuts that come with the chrome drain pipes). Note: this is for neighborhood hardware stores, at HD, all...

I plan to use mine in wort, and many people do, so there is some additional concern there. Walker, did you build already? or are looking. I know many nuts are Zinc but some are chrome. As far as coating in JB Weld. I think that is sub-optimal, regardless of the safety of JB Weld. I...

Actually water heaters often have a zinc "sacrificial anode". Plus zinc is a nutrient at levels below 40mg/day (11mg day recommended). But one important difference is that pH is lower in mash or wart than in drinking water. And even at a "safe" level there is still concern for longevity of...

Yup, chrome is considered inert. And pretty. Which reminded me of something else I've seen pop up. Some people suggested there is some zinc in the coating on the water heater elements, but the one I had looked like 100% chrome. There are also Zinc test strips available if anyone thinks...

Well I ruined my heatstick trying to get the Zinc nut off. So score that JB Weld 1 - Eric 0.... I know my nut was Zinc because it was labeled as such. It was a great design too, a 1 1/2 x 1 1/4 slip nut with a big rubber grommet that snugged the threads real nice and helped minimize JB Weld...

RE: Zinc... I started a second thread https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/heatstick-materials-question-zinc-158092/ , not realizing this got brought up here. I just built one, but am too concerned about the Zinc. All of the drain pipe nuts at my HD were Zinc. But a quick google search...

oops, didn't realize this was just brought up here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/heatstick-awesome-142803/index25.html as well

I recently built a heatstick a-la the ubiquitous instructions on the web. (http://www.cedarcreeknetworks.com/heatstick.htm) I just boiled 6 gallons very successfully with the heatstick supplementing my electric stove. However I have some lingering concerns about materials safety. All the...

So then would a 10 gallon mash tun, 8 gallon kettle, and 5 gallon HLT be workable if my plan is similar? Am I ever going to get so little (less than 1-1.5 gallons) back out of my initial mash / infusions that I'd need to sparge with more than 5 gallons?

So I've found that the consensus is 10gal for the Mash Tun if you're building one from a water cooler. Since a 5 gal isn't enough for 5 gallon batches of a big beer. But I can't figure out definitively how big the Hot Liquor Tank should be. Many setups match, but is that necessary...