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I recently made a very nice lager. If I recall correctly, it was 2# pilsner, 3# 2-row, 1# light munich, 2# corn, .75 oz Northern Brewer (60 min) & 34/70 yeast at 62*. It's extremely tasty, for the fans of light lagers. Most folks would never know that it wasn't fermented cold.

I just used rope caulk & filled the 1-1/2" under the cedar. It wasn't necessary to completely fill in the indent.

You have almost the same freezer that I have. That brown rubber lip is a bonus. I found that it's a great surface for rope caulk to adhere to. I made a cedar 2x8 collar & love my results. I added a strip of stick-on neoprene foam to the top of the cedar & it works great. My hinges have...

I've always loved the urinals, at Stasiu's in Minneapolis... http://www.urinal.net/stasius/

Go to the hardware store & get yourself a cheap set of feeler gauges. I set my BC to .024" & condition my malt. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Malt_Conditioning It works wonders.

Test/control your mash pH & let the yeast clean up, before bottling. Just because you don't see bubbling doesn't mean that the yeast are done doing their job.

Are you calculating mash efficiency, or total brewhouse efficiency? These are very different animals. If your water has alkalinity like mine (350+ ppm), you may have some serious conversion problems. If you had grain husks in your sample when you added the iodine... That might have...

Be aware that the 5.2 buffer will not work if your water is high in alkalinity. My water has bicarbonate content over 350 ppm & renders 5.2 useless.

While I agree that this is one reason, it isn't the only reason. If you're mashing at temps where beta amylaze is more active, you can get beers that finish quite dry. I often find that I get dry beers on my system, because of a few different factors. One main contributor is when I allow the...

What I meant with my previous post is that Midwest makes a lot of the products that are branded GE.

Midwest Electrical is owned by GE. I trained some of their guys to use AutoCAD Electrical, last year.

You'd be better off with a 30 Amp Switch. 20 Amps won't cut it... 5500 / 210 = 26.19... Too much amperage for that switch. I'd suggest returning it.

I've started using the Saflager 34/70 at low ale temps...I love it.

I'm curious...Your IBUs in the recipe are at 47.76, but I'm calculating half that, with your hop schedule. Did I miss something? Sorry to bring up an old post, but I'm trying DCT, this weekend & am hoping to nail it.

Yes...Please!

However... They could be useful for a mash tun or HLT.

I'd say you should get yourself a 1500W element & maybe a PWM. (Although the PWM might not be needed in this case.) Don't mess with the apartment wiring or outlets.

The copper wire is probably the most expensive portion, if you're going that cheap.

They have their eye on you, me & everyone else. It's the trendy, new marketing technique... "Keep tabs on everyone, to point them at the things they want"

It would be running at 1/4 the listed wattage, if I'm not mistaken.