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I should clarify that my context is racking wort out of the boil kettle, not filtering finished beer into a bottling bucket both processes have in common the need to leave behind hops particulates. Cold crashing works great for finished beer, but not for wort in the boil kettle

@RM-MN I'm thinking of something similar. I have a Wilser hop bag I could use as a filter, if I could form it into a rigid well using a wire spiral, then I could dip the intake of the autosiphon into the center to draw clear wort out. Were you able to find stainless wire? Most of the coils of...

Thanks for the tip on the Brett bruxellencis As far as stabilizing, my plan is to leave it in the keg at cellar temp and just pour samples until the flavor develops, then move to the kegerator and serve Brett barleywine on draft!

what temperature and pressure is your fermenter sitting at during the year? My basement is 55-65 but I'm wondering if that will slow down the brett culture development

I'm planning something similar with a finished English Barleywine. 1.105 down to 1.024 when it was all said and done. 60 IBUs. It's been sitting for three months in the keg I fermented in. Was thinking of bottling half and pitching brett cultures in the other half to see what develops. My...

I brewerd an English barleywine back in September. Fermented down from 1.105 to 1.024. Took three months to go from a bitter chalky mess to a point where I can begin to taste the potential. This is going to be a great beer in another 3-9 months time. I fermented 8 gallons in 2 corny kegs...

It's kind of a hybrid style, which is part of what makes it so unique. Doesn't fit nearly into any BJCP style guideline I'm pretty sure the ester profile comes from Wyeast 2565 Kolsch yeast. I would be concerned about clashing phenolics with a Belgian yeast. I agree that it's not US-05 or similar

I'm looking for a better solution for drawing foam-free samples from a keg. I ferment in kegs and often have several on deck at room temperature in my basement at 55-65 degrees. Pressure can be anywhere from 10-30 psi depending on how I managed the spunding. Right now I have a picnic tap with...

It may remind you of that flavor, but I can guarantee you that New Glarus doesn't use orange peel in Spotted Cow.

yes, I'm referring to a stainless hop spider with the typical 300/400 micron filter. I'm thinking that will give me the best of both worlds - free floating hops during the boil for max extraction, and filtered straining prior to transfer

I'm trying to come up with a way to reduce the volume of hops making it into my fermenter. I use Whirlfloc 5 minutes before flameout, chill with my IC, then rack with an auto-siphon after it settles. But it's still a lot of sludge getting sucked up and clogging the siphon. I don't have a hops...

I don't have an answer for your proposed method, but I've recently started making starters using a simple relay method. I have a double wall insulated stainless steel growler so I just increase my batch size by 1/2 gallon and runoff hot wort into the growler before the first hops addition...

Dude, just return what you have and get the BlowTie valve. It is superior in every way. You're overthinking this one.

oh, I missed the detail that you're using FC taps The MoreBeer product link upthread shows a regular full-flow chrome tap, not a flow-control tap. how does that work?

no foaming problems with the direct-connect faucets? Why do we need ~10-feet of tubing to run to a keezer shank, but it's OK to have zero tubing if you put the faucet right on the QD? I'm intrigued because I ferment in kegs and pulling a sample with a picnic tap and length of tubing can get...

yeah, same idea. I have a false bottom for my mash tun, but the holes are too big. Is there a false bottom for a keggle that has the fine mesh screen to filter out pellet hop particles?

really?! It seems like there is potential for wild yeasts and/or bacteria in the lines/fittings, especially after pouring sour beers The same process as getting a keg ready for a new batch of beer. maybe I can skip the sanitizing step? Does everyone else just run BLC and skip the santizer?

yeah that's similar to my line of thinking. The only question as raised above, is how soon post-boil does the water re-absorb oxygen? Minutes, hours, days?

I've let it sit for a month on the yeast cake with no ill effects. Two months might be pushing your luck Cold temperatures buy you more time, as autolysis happens much more slowly if it's stored cold. If you have a proven method to do a closed oxygen-free transfer with yeast activity towards...

those methods are fine, but they're missing the CO2 purge step. So any air/oxygen in the bottle is getting sealed in with the beer, right?