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I used to use an E-500 model and after approx a year the beads stayed the same dark color so there was no difference visually between wet and dry. The heater still worked they just wouldn't lighten up. Don't know if its possible to change them out

Well my concern was not the cost to run it I just thought it might not be necessary since I had not had one at all over the past 5 years.

Couldn't find an answer after searching so... I just bought a fan to circulate the air in my chest freezer and don't think it needs to run all the time. Was thinking of setting it up to run off my temp controller circuit so it runs when the Keezer does. Any issues with this??

I used to aerate with oxygen bottle stainless wand and diffuser but couldn't notice any difference in final product so don't bother anymore also I stopped using liquid yeast, definitely made my brewing sessions easier.

FWIW over the last 40 batches of various IPA recipes I have used between 3 to 7 ML of 88% lactic, most common amount is either side of 5ml. I normally use RO water.

My Dad's home brew. He used Blue Ribbon malt extract, bread yeast, white sugar and dried hops from some early health food place. If he really wanted something special he'd add some dark Karo syrup or brown sugar. He made this all through the '60s with me helping brewing and bottling. Had a...

Use dry yeast, buy RO water at Walmart for .29/gal.

I never tried to remove the labels, was always more concerned with what was inside the bottle.

I ferment in carboys and never oxygenate and have no problems making great beer

Just look at the side of the installed cap the twist off will have angles that correspond with the neck threads. BTW twist off bottles and caps can be reused.

If you live in a moderately sized city you probably has a gasket supply company which supplies O-rings also. Take the lid over there and let them size it

That is definitely a crappy weld, incomplete fusion and/or slag trapped. I would not grind it down any more, you could test those areas with an awl or sharp pick. If its slag it will likely loosen up and come out, good metal will still be there. Either way it's sterilized during boiling.

You don't need to mix because you only have one bottle (keg) let it sit at room temperature for a week at least before chilling in the kegerator. Purge or burp after filling keg by pressurizing to 30 PSI and venting through reliefe valve, do it 4 or 5 times. Make sure you leave 5 psi or so in...

Austin Home Brew doesn't have a store front?

When I was capping bottles I always rotated the bottle approx 1/3 between the first and second pull

I used to use bleach exclusively although stronger than that mixture but always let items dry before use. When starsan came out I switched as it keeps so well with RO water as mixer. Glad to know the ratios for no rinse use.

Looks normal but every time you remove the top to check something you risk infection and or oxidation

Using vacuum (neg. pressure) to seal the cap is different than relying on the cap being able to resist internal pressure.

There will be plenty of yeast, after bottling elevated temp will carbonate faster but after a week or so need to store cold

I don't do a forced test but do what I call a rest by bring temp up to 72 after fermentation for 6-12 hrs then back down to mid 50s to drop yeast then up to mid 60s.for dry hop from there cold crash 48-50 to drop the hops prior to kegging. I have never had a diacetyl problem