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I notice you've got an airlock on there. While the bag is certainly easier to clean than the ceiling, I recommend you rig up a blow-off tube. You may not do some painting with this batch, but it's just a matter of time.

Yeah, no need to over-kill it with a bath-tub full of water. Besides, you'll need lots of ice to keep that volume of water cold. Just something big enough to fit the fermenter and a some large ice-packs in. I rarely need to swamp-cooler my brews, but when I do I use a big plastic storage bin...

As Cooper says above, you'll need to control your fermentation temps. An ambient temperature of 78 means that active fermentation will lift your brew into the 80s. Everything but a saison will taste bad at those temperatures. As he also states, it is possible to keep temperatures down...

Ive never heard of any of these 'hopped' produces either - not to say they don't exist or aren't good though. For yeast with a beer that big, most yeasts can handle it so long as you're not under-pitching. I'm not used to measuring yeast in grams, but I think if US-05 usually comes in 11 gram...

Anybody that knows anything is well aware that 19 days, 13 hours and 46 minutes is ALWAYS the correct time to ferment any beer under any circumstances, excepting of course, when it's not the correct time.

If you cold crash it, those particles will drop to the bottom within a couple of days. You're likely done, but patience is a virtue and will give you clearer beer.

If you can afford it then go straight to kegging. You don't have to buy a bottling bucket, capper, bottles, bottle brush, bottling wand, bottle sanitizer, etc. While these don't amount to a huge cost, if you know you're serious about this hobby - and it sounds like you are - then don't fart...

Do you realize that this thread has cobwebs all over it?

Sometimes I find that the same beer tastes differently at 8 in the morning than it does later in the evening. :fro:

"dumpenbrau" - haha! Never heard that before...

Be careful opening them - hop debris in the bottles can lead to gushers. Get them good and cold for at least 2-3 days and open them in the sink.

You can cold crash it and keg it. Of the 2 infected batches I've had out of about 50 batches, I was reluctant to package the beer for fear of spreading the infection into more of my equipment. But it's up to you.

thanks for the detailed response. I've cooled the swamp cooler further and it should get down to the low 60s within a few hours.

I brewed on Sunday. My ambient temp was 68-70 which the beer stayed at through to Monday. However, when I woke up Tuesday morning I saw that the stick on thermometer was reading 75, so I immediately swamp coolered it. It couldn't have been at that temp for more than 12 hours, and probably...

While you might find some winemakers here - possibly even plenty - this is more of a homebrewing beer forum. I think your question would likely get more responses on a wine making forum, of which there are plenty.

Forge ahead. The initial fermentation will be the most active but should be done within a few days. After that, you'll be able to leave it alone without having to worry about the hose clogging. Next time don't fill it so high.

Ok, thanks! I'll try that.

I bought a 55 lbs sack of Marris Otter grain from my LHBS in October 2014. I haven't used it at all, so it is still unopened in the original sack. I've kept it stored in my basement which is normally cool and dry (60-65 degrees), however it does get some humidity in the months of June and July...

An ambient temp of 25 is too warm for most yeasts. So is 24. Look up the specs on the yeast you're using (via interweb) and get those temps down to prevent off flavors. Initial fermentation temps are crucial for getting the best results. Most yeasts tend to like it around 18-19.

It wasn't the beer that gave you the stomach infection. In fact, it would probably make an excellent solution for an enema.