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I'd vote Taprite. I started out with a crappy no name regulator that gave me nothing but trouble. I upgraded to a dual gauge Taprite and it has been rock solid. So good in fact that I got another single gauge Taprite to use as my utility setup for CO2 transfers, keg purging, etc. around the...

Read the reviews, see what they say. Damn near everything you buy comes from China, buying from Aliexpress just cuts out the middle man, you're getting the same stuff just without the mark up.

You can buy tons of different, completely assembled, spunding setups from Aliexpress for like $20 to $30...

There are a bunch of options to help you limit O2 going into the keg. One of the most popular with a NEIPA is to rack to the keg with a few points of gravity left to go and spund it. This way you don't need to add additional sugar and you can still naturally carbonate the beer. As for CO2...

Jockey boxes tend to pour better at higher pressures. I've got 2 5/16 75' coils in mine and it pours best at ~30 psi or so. I'd guess about 10 seconds to fill a glass and minimal head. I find the biggest issue with the jockey box on multiple day trips is not over carbonating the beer.

So what do you suggest be done with the style then? I see lots of talk about what not to do, what do you suggest is the correct way to do it?

The BYO clone of Julius has Carapils in the grain bill so you might be on to something. The OP said his NEIPA was close to what he was looking for and just wanted some more fullness, not that he wanted to clone Julius...

Changes look fine, that'll put your flaked oats and wheat at 25% of the grain bill. I would go with 3.9g of SO4 and 6.9g of CaCl2. That would give you a water profile of Ca - 114, SO4 - 74 and Cl - 151 with a pH of 5.46 without adding any acid. Keep in mind that I don't know your actual water...

Everything is off of your original, I think that grain bill looks fine. I'd recommend a 60 min mash simply because in my experience a 90 min mash leads to greater attenuation and a drier beer. I think a lot of your body problem is simply down to the beer finishing too low.

I've never gone higher than 20% of my grain bill being oats/wheat, I can't really comment on what it will do. I've never had an issue with body going with the 20% you've already got. Personally I'd focus on mash temps, salt additions and pH before going heavier on the oats.

You don't sound like a jerk, its just nice to be able to rule out hops as a possible issue. Looks like standard amounts for a NE IPA so I think you can focus on grain bill and water going forward. My quick calculations show you were shooting for about 1.067 SG? 90 min mash at 152F, and...

What was the total volume of water that you mashed with? I'm curious to see if I can figure out what sort of water profile you created. Using tsp as a measurement is horribly inaccurate BTW, weight would be more helpful. Did you use acid? Do you know your mash pH? Do you have SG and FG...

I appreciate your concern of my CFC but I'm sure its just hop oils coming out. I'm not doing anything to the CFC that the official cleaning instructions don't specify and it does eventually run clear after cleaning.

A refractometer will read high, not low, on the FG. Really, unless the refractometer has had the wort correction factor calculated with numerous hydrometer readings, the FG is a complete crap shoot. However assuming the correction was done with the standard correction factor of 1.04 and the FG...

Yeast are going to do what they want to do. They are alive and they are going to decide what your final FG is going to be, all that you can do is try to nudge them in the direction you want. That being said you've got a couple of options. First off, just because the karusen is dropping...

Just so you know, the BJCP lists the FG range for the style between 1.010 & 1.014. I'd guess the majority of your mouthfeel issue is simply down to how dry the beer is. At 1.003 you've basically got alcoholic malt water. I'd focus on mash temps to get your FG up into the proper range...

Well it looks like it finished extremely dry, 1.003 is a bit crazy for the style. How did you mash it? Single infusion? You could bump up the mash temps to try to get a little more body out of it. You could also try a step mash, I like to do a step with my hefe's. Other than playing with...

I use the CFC that came with my Grainfather, it works very well. For initial cleaning I just pumped hot PBW through it for 30 minutes followed by a 10 minute rinse with cold water. I always blow mine out with an air mattress pump after using and cleaning it and store it as is. On brew day I...

Get the beer in the carboy nice and cold before adding the gelatin. I usually cool mine down to 2C (35.6F), then add the gelatin. I'll leave it for 24 to 48 hours and then bottle (well, I keg, but you'll bottle).

Just add the empty balloon to the carboy while the beer is still fermenting. The fermentation will fill it with pure CO2, I do this all the time.