As a final P.S., the hops I listed as suspects in FF were what the manufacturer gave as OK replacements for the hop blend (Amarillo, Simcoe, Citra) and I added Centennial, just because it seemed appropriate. cheers!
You made Berliner Weiss-- traditionally not boiled and very low IBU. Enjoy your sour lacto beer. Or boil it and add new yeast (and hops) as mentioned above.
Sure, google around to confirm; I was going by memory re the hops. Of course we don't know the % mix, and it may also say "experimental" hops so you could use the hot new hops (names are escaping me atm).
Leaf hopping with Amarillo, Centennial, Simcoe and Citra may get you "close". I haven't done it but those high-demand hops are generally what the blend is trying to reproduce.
The really good IPA's are best drunk fresh. You have probably seen Stone's Enjoy By ##/##/13. The date is 6 or so weeks from bottling. So I don't think there was anything wrong with removing 3+ month old IPA from the shelf. Same with Pliny, Heady, etc. I agree it is not "bad" or expired...
I would drop the Galena altogether, and sub in your cascade and centennial hops in its place. or
move galena to bittering and switch with the columbus.
and possibly dry hop with citra.
others will chime in. good luck!
Exactly. You need to soak bottles in PBW or oxyclean overnight in hot water. Then remove and bottle brush each bottle and inspect for visual cleanliness. Then rinse etc and then sanitize in cold water with starsan (I am not 100% sure but I think cold water is best for starsan).
Starsan is not...
That is an infection.
Feel free to post your methods and we can trouble shoot to see where it may have gone astray.
and bleach bomb everything, at the very least.
A pitch of healthy and enough yeast (per mrmalty.com or yeast calc)-- will help the yeast tolerate the high OG, be less stressed and ready to bottle carb more quickly.
The OP used liquid yeast, and as we are in the beginner forum, I would guess there was no starter made. So the yeast crapped...
High ABV beers (above 8%) generally take longer to carb if no new yeast was added at bottling. It could take 2-3 months, instead of 2-3 weeks for a 1.050 OG beer. Usually this is OK because the high alcohol beers need time to condition and become more drinkable.
I have no experience adding...
It will be beer!
Keep reading on here, buy a paper book and digest all the relevent parts (Palmer's How to Brew is a classic), and do it again. Plan your brew day -- it really helps to read and understand fully the instructions before starting the brewing process. You also need to know...
Sanitized does not equal sterile, and sometimes the bad guys make it through. Are you saying that the first bottles were clear of the debris, and now the recent drinking bottles are becoming cloudy? Does it taste sour? (edit: I see you said it tastes fine)
It could be a bacteria that has...
Sorry to hear it may be infected. A few things for next time. You used ice to cool the wort. All things that touch wort after boiling needs to be sterilized (boiled) or sanitized (star san is the best product imo).
I can't really decipher your sanitizing routine.
Dish soap is not a...
In lieu of the OP's usage of WY American ale 1056, I would just use dry yeast (rehydrated in warm water). The equivalent is US 05. It costs about half as much as the same liquid (WY 1056/WL 001), and you get many more yeast cells without having to futz with underpitching (one vial) or making a...
The use of blue non-food grade buckets for fermenters is not the place to save $10, IMO. There are different levels of plastics made by the same company. The food-grade buckets are more expensive because it is required to use "virgin" materials. The cheap hardware buckets are made with...