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Cheers! :mug:

Like said above, it'll be slightly stronger. And reduce the bottling agent.

I did something similar on my 1st batch - I was inspecting the airlock and pressed down on the lid of the pail and when I let go, the air returning to the pail sucked the water into the pail. :( I switched to a diluted mixture of star san after that, but the batch turned out good!:mug: I...

Well, it's got to better than seasoning with water! That definitley explains the metallic taste.

Erythro73, I thought you said disaster. :D You got your 1st day under your belt. It's like your first real fist fight or sex, there may be blood and you probably looked like a fool, but you've gone through the experience and it can only get easier:mug: Congrats, the pic looks like yeast...

Erythro73, I thought you said disaster. :D You got your 1st day under your belt. It's like your first real fist fight or sex, there may be blood and you probably looked like a fool, but you've gone through the experience and it can only get easier:mug: Congrats, the pic looks like yeast...

Wait AT LEAST 72 hours for visible signs of fermentation before getting nervous.

On my 1st, I forgot to get all the LME out the container and my OG was about .015 low. I think the reduction of fermentables caused it. But it is still beer, just a little less alky. Pitching prior shouldn't make a difference. I think most people boil the hops sans bag, I do. Look up...

Dogfish Head puts out some really good stuff, the 90 minute IPA is one of my favs. I also recently discovers Allagash St. Curiex if you can find it. Samuel Smith is pretty awesome as well.

Looks normal to me.

JHamm, I would only use your turkey pot if it will be dedicated to brewing and is clean. No oil on it if it has been used, it will kill the head of the beer. A six gal pot won't allow you a true full boil I don't think. To end with 5 gals, you'll need to start w at least 6 gals of water to...

I believe the reduction is closer to 25% from what I have read. I did an IIPA and cut my hops back by about 20% and it seems about right on for the style. That was my 1st, a full boil. I started with 6.5 gals and boiled for an hour. I ended up with 4.5 gals, but later realized I could have...

I believe that the rule of thumb is to rack to secondary after fermentation is around 2/3 complete (if you are going to use a secondary/bright tank). The reason, as I understand it, you still want SOME fermentation activity in the Bright. Now, as for the scientific reason, I am not sure. I...

As long as you are in the range consistently , I think you are alright. CB.

this is a honey cream ale I found. I want something light and easy for the womens and a good "on the water" beer for spring and summer. Any insight or thoughts on this recipe? Also, my LBS has fresh grains and yeast, but canned extract. Is it worth using their ingredients or just use Brewers...

I believe the more water in your boil, the greater the efficacy and utilization of the hops. So, for a smaller boil, you would actully require more (double?) hops to equal. But more importantly, does the recipe mention partial or full boil? CB.

I always thought you needed the bluest flame, no yellow? +1 on a heat shield. It will concentrate the heat to the bottom of the pot and increase efficiency by blocking wind. But 30 minutes on a cold day is not a bad rate for 5 gallons. CB.

This is why I named my 1st batch "Cades Imperial Garbage Pale Ale!" :rockin:I am hoping for the best, but expecting the worst. That being said, I have learned ALOT about the process, and my own processes and believe when I brew my next (2nd) batch, it will be better, probably not great, but...

Not the best pic, but the white stuff looks like clumps of tiny bubbles. I do use Star San liberally and do not rinse, maybe its "The Foam"! The beige-ish stuff looked like yeast or some type of organic matter. I have seen some brews with much more matter than what I have but it all looks...

Thanks guys, I'll put up some pics tomorrow.