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You can also get black cherry capsules at GNC and other health food stores. I take them year round and keep a supply of colchicine around. I usually get it in my big toe after stubbing/injuring it. When that happens I start on the colchicine before the symptoms even start showing up. When you...

I've started us-05 as low as 52 and ramped it up toward the end of fermentation. I think you'll be fine at 55+.

I just did a kolsch using that same yeast. As with most of my brews, I crashed cooled it to 38 for 10 days or so after fermentation was complete. Usually the beer is crystal clear using this method, but the kolsch had a lot of floating junk in it (similar, but more chunky than your pic). I...

Don't wory about not seeing any airlock activity. It's possible the lid didn't seal completely and the gas escaped there. Like the good folks above have said, take a gravity reading to see where you're at.

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If it works for you then go for it. Personally, I stopped doing a secondary on most/all my beers. IMO, racking to a secondary vessel just increases the chances of something going wrong.

Welcome to the forum. There's plenty of information here to get you started. I would recommend leaving the beer alone for at least 2-3 weeks before bottling. Even after active fermentation ends the yeast will be working to clean up after themselves, then they will start dropping out of...

You can certainly lager the beer in the serving fridge. As for fermenting, if you don't mind having the beer you're serving/drinking at 55 degrees for a couple weeks then I guess you'd be okay.

I just did a roggen that was 45% rye. It was good at 6 weeks, better now (about 8 weeks).

I do many beers with US-05 that I start at 54 degrees. Once fermentation starts to slow a bit i raise the temp a degree or two a day until they finish out. No problems with that yeast at low temps.

I too used to get lower efficiency on my hefeweizens. Wheat berries are smaller and harder (generally) than barley. Since I got my own mill and started double-milling the wheat (once by itself, then again with the barley) my efficiency has improved dramatically, 83% on my last batch. If you have...

One of the great things about batch sparging is not having to worry about such things. I've used water ranging from 180 up to 210 without any bad affects.

In my opinion it will be another wit beer (not that that's a bad thing). A german hefe is all about the yeast and you won't get that with a wit yeast.

This is all speculation since i've never used bulk pre-crushed grains, but I suspect there is a lot of stratification going on in the bag. The lighter husks will make their way to the top of the bag and the heavier particles and flour will migrate to the bottom. This probably isn't an issue for...

I've never used 3068, but I've used WLP351, 380, and the dry WB-06 yeast. I got a lot of sulpher with all of them. All fermented at 62 degrees. On all of them the sulpher eventually disapated. I think you're fine...

A lot of this has been mentioned already, but Blue Mountain, Starr Hill, and South Street are three breweries in the Charlottesville area. Richmond has Legend and Richbrau breweries. The local brew club meets at Legend and I prefer their beers. Capital Ale House has an incredible lineup of...

I used to have efficiency issues on beers with a large percentage of wheat or rye. Now I crush them once by themselves, then again with the rest of the grain. I also do a protein rest around 122 and extend my sacc. rest to about 75 minutes. Now my efficiency on those beers is about the same as...

How do you 'force it to'?

If you are assuming that your boil-off rate and hop absorption is constant from batch to batch this could be the source of your discrepancy.

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