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Thanks everyone for the nice comments. I got some paint on today. Stripped for paint: Going with blue (maybe a racing stripe later): -- Josh

I started preparing the stand for paint yesterday. I'm hoping to get the paint on this week.

Thanks! I'm going to do some reading and give this a try. -- Josh

I was just looking through some components on Jameco.com ... There is obviously a lot to digest here... Maximum Single Supply Voltage, Maximum Input Offset Voltage, etc... Anyone want to give me some specifics on picking the right parts and making a circuit that will work for this? -- Josh

Thanks. The thermocouple is connected to the Honeywell solenoid gas valve. It controls the internal safety switch which shuts the valve down when the thermocouple cools (pilot out). thermocouple ------+-----> solenoid valve (safety switch) \...

Sometimes it's difficult to see the pilot light especially on a bright sunny day. I thought it would be neat to have an LED or something that indicates when the pilot light is on/off based on the thermocouple signal. I realize that the voltage on the thermocouple is ridiculously low (26-32mV)...

With the kegs stored...

Thanks everyone! Next up is finishing the pump mounts, stripping everything down for grinding/cleanup, and then painting. Hopefully I'll be ready to do a H2O run through on it this weekend to work out any kinks! :D -- Josh

I made some pump brackets to fit between the keggles (when stored). I'll be milling bolt slots in them to allow the pumps to slide forward during operation. I'll use some wing nuts to tighten them into place. The pumps will slide back and lock in when not in use so that they are not protruding...

Pilot burners mounted...

Building the control box was fun. I got a plastic box from a friend that was used for some kind of sensors. It has a clear plastic back cover. I order the following from Auber two PID controllers, two Panel Mount RTD connectors, and two RTD probes. I also picked up some switches from...

I'm using Honeywell VR8200 furnace valves with integrated pilot for my HLT and MLT. I got the following from Pexsupply the valves, thermocouples, and pilot burners. Both the pilot burners and the honeywell valves come with the LP conversion kits. Making splash shrouds and brackets for the...

Gas manifold time...

Adjustable burner rack and aluminum wind shields for the burners... I welded stainless steel nuts to the underside of the frame (here they are just tacked) and screwed in 4 stainless steel threaded rods for adjustment...

Height check for storage of kegs inside the stand. I wanted to leave room for the burner height adjustment too. Fittings, some McMaster, some ebay, some onlinemetals.com.... I sent the kegs off to a welder to be TIG welded. Here they are all finished: Boiler (without its thermometer)...

Welding in the keg rests. I used 1.5" angle iron. Those too are notched out.

Starting the frame... I used 1.5" mild steel square tubing. Notched out the ends: Top and bottom frames:

Edit: This build is complete! The final cost and parts sheet is at post #80 HERE. Original Post: This DIY Projects forum is dangerous I tell you!! I had a perfectly good day-tap keg setup, and now I have an 8 keg 4 tap keezer. I had a perfectly good all-grain, single tier, single pump...

Just a correction... I had tried .055, .059, .063, and .067. -- Josh

Yikes. I think you may have over drilled them. When I converted mine, I ended up at .067 for a good flame. The high pressure orifices that come with them were drilled at .055. Somewhere on this forum I had seen (and it looks like you did too) a mention that you should start at 60K BTUs on...