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Cheers! My second March 809 came in and I mounted it in place of that old Teel pump I had on the left. Next up is adding the removable control panel arm! I'm really hoping to brew a batch on it this weekend. -- Josh

Thanks Brian! Yeah that was me. Funny thing the flames looked totally different initially compared to the water test day. Back to the chart/drilling process I guess... My supply lines are 1/2" OD after the solenoid valves (something bigger before the valves) so should be fine. -- Josh EDIT...

Thanks, good idea! -- Josh

Nope, not Navy. I guess I fly a lot, maybe that's why. ;-) -- Josh

Some pictures of the system stowed away. Front: Back: -- Josh

Ok, post-paint assembly is complete. I brought the system out and cured the paint in-place. I also did some water tests and marked the siteglasses. I still need to build the removable arm that will hold the control panel. I marked the sight glasses by lightly scratching a ring in them with a...

Thanks for the links guys. I'll give them a try. Hopefully it'll be as easy as put a switch here, put a power source here, add wires, etc. -- Josh

That thermostat would work fine. I went with the Love controller because I like having the digital temperature display on the side of the coffin. It's also nice being able to set the differential. If I had to do it over again, I'd probably use one of these from Auber. I have these on my...

You can crosscheck with my build cost sheet. If you want to know where I got a specific item, let me know and I'll dig it up. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/hbt-members-inspired-me-my-keezer-project-150256/index8.html#post1743956 -- Josh

That depends on your sparge technique. If you fly sparge on a single-tier system (brutus 10) then you need two pumps. If you batch sparge then you don't. Lonnie uses the second pump on the brutus 10 during the chilling process too, but if you are doing immersion, or single-pass counterflow...

I was actually wanting to put together a wiring diagram of what I did, but I don't have a program suitable for this. Does anyone know of an easy (and free) program for quick wiring diagrams? -- Josh

Cheers! :mug: -- Josh

Dude, be careful! Brazing dissimilar threads together is one thing, but relying on rectorseal (especially for high pressure) seems like a time bomb. I'm no expert, but thread sealant is just not made for sealing dissimilar threads, and will undoubtedly leak in the future. The gas hookup...

That brass hex bushing is NPT to NPT right? You have that screwed onto the orifice fitting, which is flare. -- Josh

Thanks Brian! Looking forward to seeing your build thread. To mount the pilot burners, I first straightened the L-brackets attached to them. I then fed the pilot and thermocouple protrusions up through one of the triangle-sized holes in the banjo. I marked the two bracket holes on the burner...

Check the pics early in the thread to see where I used angle iron on the inside of lower storage rack. This saves you around 1.5" since the keggles can go in on an angle then be seated for storage. If you save 1" on the casters, 1.5" on the lower rack, 6" without burners, you're going to be...

That's damn close! The height from the floor to the top of a mounted keggle is 59". I used 5" casters. ;-) I'm 6'3" and here is a picture with my arm extended over the mash tun on top of the stand. It's plenty low-enough to stir the mash or watch for hot break. :rockin: -- Josh

He mentioned it in Post #34, see below:

Nice build! A great looking rig you have there. -- Josh

I used this header paint from the auto parts store. It's rated for 2000 degrees (Fahrenheit) when cured properly. I'll be curing it in-place, as close to their recommended procedure as I can. Obviously the areas that don't get cured from the burner heat, don't need to handle high temps anyway...