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I'd simplify the circuit to start with. Rule out the switch wiring (your switch may be different than mine?) by directly wiring the 110V hot from the source to #13. When the Alarm 2 is triggered by the RTD reading being low, the AL2 light will illuminate and the voltage across #14 and your...

That looks correct. I set my inty to P100, but P10.0 should not have a negative impact. Are you sure you have it wired correctly? The ground should be taken directly from the 110V source, and the (only) 110V hot should be going "through" PID terminals 13 and 14. Something doesn't sound...

Did you configure the PID for the J2 contacts (Alarm 2)? -- Josh

Just did my 3rd batch on this system yesterday, and killed the tank toward the very end. I'd say 3 per tank is about right. -- Josh

Sorry, it seems I lost the paper listing the sizes I tried and where I ended up. The best thing to do is to drill it one size bigger and try it until you get the flame you want. I think the orifices come with a .055 hole in them, so I'd start at a .060 and move up until you are pleased with...

Thanks! Right, the Honeywell VR8200 valves that I used are only good for low pressure propane. They have an integrated safety pilot valve built into them. -- Josh

The Banjo burners are high pressure propane burners, so the orifice holes (in the brass fitting entering the burner) are smaller. To convert these burners to low pressure propane you have to drill the holes in the orifice to be bigger. That's what I did. I really only ever need to run 2...

It's my understanding that the SYL-43X2 doesn't support an on/off output mode (only PID style). It would be useful for an electric system, or with gas valves that support a range of "openness". The valves I used are either fully open, or fully closed so while the controller I used is a PID, it...

Honestly, I've been super pleased with it all. At this point, I wouldn't change anything. My system is setup for low pressure LP (liquid propane). I'm not sure what you mean by HP (maybe you mean high pressure LP?). The valves themselves are cheap and wiring/connectors are too. If ever I...

This is exactly what I did, and I highly recommend it to everyone doing something like this! I sanity-checked each new connection and component with a DMM as I added to the circuit. I spliced the two cords together so I could get a nice long cord. My pumps came with a wall plug cord that I...

As long as the PID is rated for at least the peak input voltage and amperage of the valve, you will be fine. As I recall, that PID maxes out at something like 3A at 240V, but if need-be, clarify the point with Auber. In my case, the valves are 24V at some extremely low amperage, so well under...

Sure. Given the six posts as: (Top) 1 2 3 4 5 6 (Bottom) You want to connect the hot 24V to both 3 and 4. Then connect 1 to the 24V valve so it is activated when your switch is in Down/Fire mode. Then connect 6 to the PID so that it is activated when the switch is in Up/Auto mode. If you...

Thanks Ryan! The PID always has power from the 110V terminal bridge, so it will be on when the main power switch is on. Each of the HOA (Hand/Off/Auto) switches has 24V wired to it. When the switch is in Auto, it is passing the 24V to the PID to do with it what it pleases. The PID will either...

Ok, here is the wiring diagram as promised. I apologize for not using proper symbols and notation. I really didn't feel very welcomed in either of the free schematic programs I tried so I just threw this together. -- Josh

The system is a joy to brew on! I'm not using a brewtroller, though I did consider going that route at one point. -- Josh

Thanks! I've been getting some more requests for a wiring diagram of my control box. I'll try to put that together soon. Today is brew day #2 on this system! :rockin: -- Josh

Here's my brutus: Full build thread here -- Josh

Ok, the system is done. The final tally is in. You may see that some items like a wort chiller, SS false bottom, etc are not listed. This is because I already had those. Some parts are bundled together (e.g. electronics) because the receipts weren't very descriptive (or I was too lazy to list...

Here's the control arm. I wanted to keep it simple, small, and easily removable to be stored down below with the kettles. The control panel slips on/off the control arm to store in the house when not in use. I used 5/16" SS round rod, some 3/8" ID SS round tubing, and 2 SS washers. I plan to use...

Sure did! Thanks for the idea, but I just got done building the arm. Pictures tomorrow. -- Josh