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First step: bought metal

Did anything come of this?

I think they look neat pictures, but have no experience whatsoever. What kind of their stuff have you used?

I've been looking at Watlow Firerod Immersion heaters. They come in a variety of voltages, wattage, etc. Two things have kept me from getting a couple just to play with: 1) expensive compared to the tried and true water heater element, and 2) really high watt density on some of them. That...

I think your question is broken; I wouldn't compare PAC to PID. I'd compare PAC to PWM; and PID vs Manual control. In all cases I'd use a PID loop to hold a setpoint, and I'd use manual control to hold a boil...vigor? I'm not aware of any pre-built hardware PID (like the Aubers) that uses...

I guess we're on the bad list.

Well, my cheap SSR's are for 24v-480v, I think. They're not in front of me right now. Since that's on the edge of the range, I would put the SSR on the high side. And, yes, I would put a heat sink on it.

So, you had the 80/20 system built, then built another welded system? Why the second one?

If you want them plain, without the White Labs label, have you searched for "bottle preforms"? Ebay link. I'd pay $3.00 to not have to clean the glue off of each one!

I'm not following... why not buy a cheap SSR, and place it inline to the input to your 24v transformer?

I'd be wrong not to point out to anyone reading this thread that this is actually crane's vision. He's the one who put this idea in my head quite some time ago. Sheesh, a year ago this idea seemed like absolute voodoo. Now it's well within my grasp to code this. I'm just working the minutiae...

Ahh.. I see what you're saying. I would tune each loop individually, on a 2000ms cycle, then code those parameters into the final sketch. I wouldn't try to autotune them while the constrain was screwing with each one. That would be disastrous. I agree about the I term windup, I've already...

The three pins on the left on the back. The bottom one goes to ground, the middle on to pin 3 on the chip (downPin) and the top goes to pin 8 (upPin). They are the three pins next to the blank spots, where I will install the vreg and filter caps when I hook this up to 12v instead of running...

Your thoughts mirror mine on priority, I think the RIMS should be priority one, HLT priority two (to maintain sparge water temp), and whatever time is left could be used to start the HLT heating. Why do you think this would mess with autotune? I'd autotune to a 2000ms cycle, then run each loop...

To program it? Via the six-pin connector, the ribbon cable. In use? Two inputs: setpoint up, setpoint down. I keep messing with the code, and haven't settled on a 'final' version yet. Right now, it takes 7,800 of 8,192 available. Here it is at the moment, it does work, but I'm open to...

Since the LCD has two rows of 8 and the chip has space for two rows of between the pins, I drew the board so that the pins from the chip would mount on the opposite side, and straddle, the pins from the LCD. It's running the same PID library that runs on the ATmega, and sensing is via a DS18B20.

Photos

Here's another little project I did awhile back, without any specific end use in mind yet.

The schematic is posted above, the code is posted earlier in this thread. You can get a lot more done than this with a tiny, though. I've got an ATtiny84 running an LCD, reading a DS18B20, and running the PID library on another board. It uses every pin, and *almost* every byte available...

I should be starting on a three vessel, all electric system shortly. The plan is to build the physical system all "manual" to begin, then continue adding automation, well, indefinitely, I suppose. I'll be using Arduino and the PID library, until my interests take me elsewhere. The plan is...