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Yeah, because of this I can likely say the OP won't be able to do it. Since he described it as a "bar" and not a "restaurant/brewpub" I can only guess he doesn't or won't be able to charge enough for food to bring food up to 50% of revenue. 5seasons really did it right. GREAT food and a...

I have a corona-style mill and love it. I know you said you hate it, but I'm just curious what the deal is with yours. Mine is made out of iron, not steel. I pieced together a ghetto rid for it like Revvy's, and I use a drill. I get 80%+ eff.

Done in one. But for further reassurance, you'll be fine. I cold crash most of my brews, even up to 13% and up until last week only bottle conditioned. Like he siad, it may take a little longer, but for beers that big you want to give them some time anyway.

The cascading bubbles found in guiness in most bars will require the use of N2

Cornykegs.com Number: 4 kegs Type: Pin-lock Condition: Used (reconditioned) Price: $134/shipped ($33.50 per keg)

Not really an issue. In my experience, puree tends to settle to the bottom with the trub, so if you're skilled at leaving trub behind, you'll be fine. However, just the same, I tend to sanitize a hop bag and cover the inlet of my auto siphon with it before going into the bottling bucket.

This got touched on but not addressed directly in this thread, so I thought I'd add it: When you add fruit to a beer, you do indeed at fermentable sugar, but you also had a bunch of water. The net effect of simply adding fruit to a beer is a reduction in ABV.

Depends on what I'm going for in the beer, but usually I just add the vodka with the berries into the brew. A lot of flavor compounds come off in the vodka, so I prefer to get them into the beer....and it gives a nice little abv boost. I usually give the fruit a week to two weeks in the vodka...

I'd shy away from adding marshmallows. Most marshmallows contain some kind of starch, usually cornstarch, that you would most likely not want in your beer. Marshmallow just adds vanilla flavor and table sugar as a fermentable. I'd just add these in the beer directly. However, perhaps toasted...

Paint strainers work just fine. The 5g are a bit small for high OG brews, perfect for say 1046. Most HBS carry big grain bags for $2-$3 and they work pretty perfect for higher OG brews.

Dude, Founders had a fire. Lost the entire lot of KBS '12 and bankrupted the entire brewery. I thought this was common knowledge by now. /s

I think 55 for an ale yeast would definitely make a difference while conditioning. If I had a section of my house that was 55 degrees in the summer, I'd definitely be excited. This is actually what I meant. It really depends on how labor intensive you want it to be. In my basement, it's be a...

An oxyclean or baking soda soak do a great hands-free job. The magic eraser idea is great for those PITA labels though. Good recommendation!

+1

I made a cherry rauchbier a bit ago. Used Oregon Red Tart, made my own puree, and used frozen whole. Turned out great. Great cherry flavor. Combines with the smoke to make a truly unique beer.

I usually cold crash for 48+ hours, so I think filling your brew kettle with ice for a while isn't going to do it. I'd just let it sit in the coldest part of your house for a week or two.

To answer your questions: Yes, you'll need a good growing medium. Georgia Red Clay ain't gonna do it. Hops like well drained soil, otherwise they'll rot. A good potting mix will do it, but dig a pretty good sized hole, discarding the red clay, and fill it up with good dirt. Hops like a lot of...

OP Mashing as you suggested can create an interesting beer, so steeping might as well. My local homebrew club did a club brew last summer that was 100% pilsener malt saison, ramped up just as you said. It took many awards. However, ramping of temperatue as you described may have more of an...

This is an oldie but goodie. I just called Kay-5, and for what it's worth, the dude on the other end of the line said that prolonged exposure to stainless steel is not recommended....he emphasized prolonged.

The HD bucket thing has been discussed at length and frequently. They are made from HDPE, same as the buckets sold at your LHBS. The HD buckets aren't labeled as food grade, but that doesn't mean they AREN'T food grade. It just means HD didn't want to pay to have them tested, cause, well, why...