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Some kettles have sight glasses or etchings on the inside for volumes. When using kettles without those I have always just marked a tall plastic spoon with measurements specific to that kettle. Or you can use a metal ruler and figure your measurements per qt, gallon, etc.

That 1.043 after adding top up water may be suspect as it's very hard to get complete mixing with top up water. Same with the preboil measurement if you didn't stir the heck out of it after sparging. Even the measurement after the post boil sugar additions could be off, but maybe closer to true...

I think you're worrying over nothing. I'm a physician, everybody at work knows I brew including the physician in chief of the hospital who is a craft beer lover. I helped the husband of my own deptartment chief get started in the hobby, and I get frequent requests to supply beer for work...

As others have said watermelon is always a big hit. I juice the watermelon and add the juice to the keg. Passionfruit is also really good if you like tart, it's hard to source though IME. I use The Perfect Puree concentrate but it's pricey. Thawed it's pretty much a liquid, I dilute to...

I think the OP is referring to bottle conditioning as in carbonating. So you do want the temp higher like high 60's at least. They will carbonate at 80*F fine. What thehaze is pointing out is that beer also ages faster at high temps, so take that into consideration when deciding what you want...

Though I doubt you'll be able to tell the difference, the 2 row called for in the recipe is presumably domestic 2-row so Briess would be the extract made from domestic malt. Muntons uses English malt. They are about the same lovibond (Briess listed at 4, Munton's light as 3-5L).

What is the problem with adding the ingredients after the boil, you mean you don't like where it puts it on the brew steps? You don't have to follow the steps exactly, you can still add them to the boil kettle after flameout. The one nice thing about checking the "after boil" box is that it...

You also need to figure out if you are doing steeping grains with extract, or an actual partial mash. You typically need to input that in the calculator as the yield will be different between the two. A mash requires base malt, must be at a more narrow range of proper temps, also typically...

It would be a partial mash, however for good conversion I would include a little more base malt since you've only got 0.5 lb for a 2 lb mash. While the crystal doesn't have to be mashed you will get more out of it mashing so I include it in the total to be converted. As a general rule of thumb...

Hey Morrey, if you're in the market for a new wheat malster you might try Great western white wheat. I've had good efficiency with that, using the 1.040 potential listed in Beersmith for it. Per the Morebeer site the kernels are bigger than your average wheat and less prone to crush issues as...

All the big online stores have a Pliny extract kit - morebeer, northernbrewer, AIH, midwest, Austin homebrew, etc.

I have a few recipes that I brew that I will sometimes top off like this, in my case I aim for about 3.25 gal post boil with top off in the fermenter to 5.5 gal so more like 40% top off. The recipes I have done this way are indistinguishable from the beers brewed with the full strength recipe...

One thing I would say is that depending on how big your partial mash is you probably don't want to sparge up to the full boil volume as you might risk oversparging. Maybe with those instructions they just wanted to limit your sparge, with the rest of the volume going straight into the kettle...

As someone mentioned above seems like it might be closest to a CAP with the corn (or pre-Prohibition lager as I guess it's called now). What was your hop variety/schedule?

Just to clarify mine is not intended as a clone of the 21st Amendment (sorry if I hijacked your thread OP!). I shoot for for 5.5 %ABV, about 20-24 IBU's. It's not sweet at all as I let the juice ferment out. The watermelon is noticeable but not overpowering and the beer is at it's best fresh...

Re: color while the juice is super bright it doesn't come through all that much in the finished beer, though there is a tint of color. See below - this is an Am wheat beer. If you've seen the Hell or High watermelon it's not pink at all.

I juice a fresh watermelon (see technique by DubbelDach in thread below with pics), then I add the juice to the keg. You could add to primary or secondary. I've found the sweet spot to be between 4-5 cups per 5 gal batch. You're not prone to infection this way, I've probably done close to 20...

Their kit instructions don't seem to specify but I'm guessing they are figuring for 70% efficiency with a 5.5 gal post boil batch size. That would get most people about 5 gals finished if everything is dumped in the fermenter, and would match the 1.064 target OG listed. So you see why it's...

Looks good. I'm not sure why the judge would make that comment. Centennial and Chinook are two of the "C" hops which have been commonly used in various combinations in American ales (especially prior to all the newer, tropical fruit varieties). Simcoe is a classic hop to pair with the C hops...

I'll just say it one more time then I'm out, you're still thinking of this wrong. You are calculating as if you are adding the straight sugar and sugar only from that 6 lbs of fruit to the batch, but you're not you're adding 2 large cans of volume of a solution that is lower in gravity than...