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For the most part you should ignore the part of a recipe that talks about volumes, sparge, etc. You need to adapt any recipe to your own process, efficiency, batch volume, etc. That might be full volume BIAB, or it could include fly sparging or batch sparging. Unless you're talking about a kit...

If you're talking about 10 gals post boil you can probably fit but it will be tight and I would rig good wide blow off tubes that won't clog. I don't see you getting 10 gals finished though. You're going to lose at least a gallon likely more in trub, to get a full 10 gals in kegs I used to aim...

@OzarkPA my main concern would be oxidizing the remainder of the batch if you're brewing 3 gal but only kegging 1 gal at a time. I'd probably fill the keg then bottle the rest . You can try purging the headspace but getting down to really low O2 levels will be difficult, especially if the...

Your calculations might be okay then. I get more like 79-80% efficiency on my 3 gal BIAB batches so 9 lbs of grain sounded like a lot to me. I also wasn't taking into account the lower attenuation of the 1968 so I was thinking you were going to end up with a 7.5-8.0% beer. Looks like you'll...

I'm getting about 5.7 on a quick calculation with Brewer's friend and using 5.4 gal mash water total. While a little higher than ideal I don't think that's enough to really affect your conversion that much. That rest at lower temp also shouldn't have been an issue. It sounds like you have done...

That about sums it up. You added in the neighborhood of 50 times too much. I think we can safely say that was the culprit

There is a Recipes/Ingredients forum that you might want to post in next time to get better feedback. There is also a Recipes section on the black top bar for proven recipes where you can search by style. My 2 cents: I like American wheats to drink light and crisp so my advice would be based...

Agreed, with those kettles you can do a 5 gal BIAB batch if you sparge. I guess the only question is can you boil that much? What is your heat source? For figuring BIAB volumes I highly recommend priceless brewing calculator: https://pricelessbrewing.github.io/BiabCalc/#Advanced Quickly...

I'd say the consensus is that the 5.2 stabilizer is a not a good product. It was made for a specific water source and as I understand it really doesn't do what it's advertised, plus adds a lot of sodium and some say a funny aftertaste. If the RO water with minimal adjustments linked above is...

I do 2.5-3 gal BIAB batches also. To hit 1.050 with 2.75 gal + post boil you'll need to get decent efficiency on your first go. My advice would be: 1) really try to get a fine crush, especially with the wheat which can be harder to crush properly (can use either white or red, I use white in my...

I like 1010 for rye and wheat beers I was trying to use up some ingredients and made a rye beer this summer with 1010 that might fit your bill. Did the following: 22% rye 15% wheat 5% light crystal (I was using up some Belgian C-20) remainder 2 row I hit 1.050 and 1.010 for a little over 5% ABV.

So how are you calibrating then? The instruction manual for that probe says to use the included 4 and 7 pH calibrations solutions.

The white spots could signify the start of a pellicle (infection), or they could just be CO2 bubbles. Kinda hard to tell without a picture. It sounds like your beer was fine initially, most ales should be finished in less than a week. Instead of doing all that crap next time just take a gravity...

Definitely agree with the others - taste it! IME especially with IPA's you can get a pretty good idea what it's going to taste like. Don't worry if it seems a bit under-bittered, the carbonation does affect that.

Definitely in

Yeah that doesn't look anything like a Belgian blonde as both the DME and dark LME will contain black malt and likely a good percentage of medium crystal like C-60. So the grainbill is more like an amber ale or Irish red, but that doesn't mean you can't make a Belgian ale with it. If you're...

Copy the "Brew pot 15 gal and cooler" profile and rename it (I think it's the same as the "All grain large + cooler" profile). Then go in and correct the tun volume and weight for your actual cooler. As mentioned above don't forget to input your actual losses like mash tun dead space, boil...

^ This. Software like beersmith is only as good as the info you put into it. You'll never hit your numbers consistently unless you figure out the actual numbers for your own system. That includes efficiency, which may differ from what the recipe is counting on. You'll have to estimate that...

Great, I'm in!

Wow that's a heck of a lot of deadspace for a 5 gal batch, how big is your pot? For comparison I had 2 gals deadspace on a 15 gal mash tun for 10-12 gal batches. Are you recirculating? If you don't add additional water to account for the deadspace your mash is going to be way too thick so I...