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Nice. I was also thinking of doing a two vessel for my mlt cooler

What kind of switches should I use for a dual 5500w? Is 30a enough?

But I may be boiling 30 gal. of wort on some days. So if I'm heating up 15 gal. of strike water, it wouldn't need that much power should it? Or should I just use 2 elements in each?

Nice. I'll do single 5500 HLT and a dual 5500 BK with a 3 position switch. PID for the HLT and PWM switch for the BK. With 2 pumps. I have a 3 wire 240v 50a spa panel mounted on the wall. Anyone can direct me to a Simple diagram or help me with one. I'm too much of a chicken Sh#t to mess with...

for interlocking, i could put a two way switch in between the pid and pwm. ill probably use 2- 4500w elements for the BK cause sometimes i do a 2hr boil.

i just got a 240v 50a installed in my garage and plan to got electric. im thinking 20 gal. batches at most. HLT = 1 pid and 1 5500w element BK = 1 pwm switch and 1 4500w & 5500w elements is this too much wattage or is it enough? if someone finds plans to help w/ this build, please help...

how much sugar would you use just to thin the body?

finally did a test run w/ just water and i love how fast it heats up. its easier to use w/ a laptop. i think the sensor is too sort and im going to extend it a bit more. i have the sensor in a compression fitting directly into the pot and have the output hose recirculating directly to the sensor...

i like the idea of using rice to bump up alcohol and to dry it out. but scared of the whole ceral mash process. thinking its too much work for what it does. but, DRIPA is an amazing beer.

can i use table sugar to thin out the body in a beer? for example, if i mashed too hight at medium or high body temps. can i use 3% table sugar to dry it out w/out giving it that alcohol heat and taste?

the only thing is that you cant manually change the percentage of the boil. its only adjusted by the sensor.

im putting the sensor in a compresstion fitting after the pump so that its getting a better reading while the wort is recirculating. for boiling, i was thinking of modifying the controller and put a PWM switch before the SSR so that i can control the power of the boil w/out a sensor in the...

just got mine. the housing is snap on stuff so it was kind of out of place when i got it. i guess it keeps the cost down. i might transfer the thing to a better enclosed housing. never turned the thing on yet, so we'll see how it goes.

the quality of the housing is super cheap. its like a snap on housing or something. when i recieved it, it was all out of place. havent tried to use it, but im might transfer everything to a new and more enclosed housing just for durability. seems like if it drops the thing will disassemble.

its in anaheim. 91 off of imperial highway. last week they poured Remy RIS aged in Pappy Van Winkle barrels and it wasnt even bottled yet. hoparazzi served a couple of their beers as well

theres a homebrew club meeting next week Thursday at OUT OF THE PARK PIZZA.

im down to do a swap like this? im in Orange

i just bought one because of simplicty. hope to get it in the mail soon. my brewdays were all ready short, but i guess this would make it shorter. i plan to heat and maintain strike water the night before brewday, then start early morning and be done way before lunch. the best thing is that i...

just ordered the DIY kit and a 25 gal. pot and cant wait. today im getting a 240v spa panel installed. anyone know how long it takes to get delivered?

i can use this diagram and the whole spa panel thing im seeing all over isnt needed, right? this can plug into my 240v 50a outlet? i agree with the second diagram. and i now might consider using 2 elements for the boil, but when its time to boil the 30gal. wort, ill just unplug the HLT pid and...