Search results

I think I can pickup this Sat. Can you PM directions? I'll bring cash ... And samples.

I save the waste water to pump through my plate chiller on brew day to cool wort. I figure the occasional plate chiller soak in star san reduces scale buildup from using the RO waste brine. In my water calculations, I treat the RO water as distilled. TDS meters show it around 2-3 ppm, but...

This is a really good idea. What's different from that water heater, and say, a 1000 W $10 element from Home Depot, other than missing a wire? Since I mash in a cooler, this sounds like a brilliant way to target a strike temp and avoid trying to account for preheating the tun or accounting...

Time to make SMaSH beers! You'll get to know those hops even better. Also, all are good dryhopping candidates.

First Wort Hopping? Hops in strike water? I've heard the latter are useless, but the former is worth it.

Oooh, makes sense. Otherwise, that seemed way below cost.

I brewed this yesterday, violently fermenting away as 1007 usually does. The double-infusion decoction mashing process took far longer and more equipment juggling than the usual single infusion, but I could detect a noticable aroma change after decocting. I imagine this would be a different...

Those hops prices are absurdly low! Five cents an ounce!? I've already bought 1 lbs bags for much of this brewing year, but I'll keep those in mind for next year if people want to split hops. I'll just stick with my grain order, looking forward to it.

I only pre-boil for 15 minutes to form hot break, and chill (not to pitching temps, but way down from boil) to leave behind cold break as well. I'm not super careful with sanitation since the pressure canner sterilizes at 15 psi. There are plenty of lipids and proteins suspended in the wort...

I don't recommend going straight from the MLT to jars; pressure canning will leave behind a lot of hot and cold break, wasting a lot of volume... That protein looks like alien fetuses. I recently made starters for canning with a 15 min boil following mashing usin irish moss, and cooled with...

This thread might help you: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/testing-fermentability-crystal-malt-208361/

Thank you very much for your feedback, Kai!

I should have been more specific: a protein rest at the higher end (131 F) for 20 mins tops, before raising to sacchrification temp. Of course, listen to Martin before me.

The ideal way to add alkalinity is pickling lime, but only to your mash, and only if you have a very sensitive scale (0.1 g). Raises pH rapdily, easily dissolves, and adds some calcium. You might want to consider a short protein rest if you're having head retention issues with that much...

Kai, Your original recipe includes both chalk and baking soda. I'm interested in brewing this beer as closely as I can, but instead using only pickling lime to increase alkalinity, keeping sodium levels significantly lower. This chalk approach generally follows the advice of Martin...

I don't mean to hijack this thread, but this seems relevant: what is an ideal hot-side exposure time for copper? My places of copper: - When I make starter wort for pressure canning, I tend to do it in the kitchen with leftover 2row. I use my old immersion copper coil for the setup...

Worth mentioning a very simple test case before I got too ambitious with this thing. Fermenting in a 68 deg F room, keeping a aggressively fermenting beer at 66 F for the past couple days by only rotating out single 20 fl oz bottles of ice every 12 hours. As a test last night, I took the...

In the end, this is why we have this obsession! Besides the potable rewards patience brings.

If you were using RO water with the grainbill you mentioned earlier, a check with BrunWater indicates you're likely hitting a decent mash pH of 5.5 because of the crystal malt addition. Nothing big to worry about compared to people way out of the ballpark. There is some indication that...

Since I haven't spotted it in a response yet: I use a Schmidling Maltmill, preadjusted. I still reach 85% efficiency with it, and can drain quickly for batch sparging. If I were to do it again, I'd spend the extra money on a proper adjustable one, such as a Monster Mill. But, I don't see...