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Would this relay work?? (The 120v ac coil version). I don't see why it wouldn't, it's rated at 40a 250v AC... http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=331055568192

Thanks, that's the type of information I was looking for. I was also thinking a spdt contactor/relay would work, but like I said I'm not exactly sure how to look for the type I need or if there was a better solution, and some are crazy expensive. And thanks for the links to the Menards switch...

How do I know what kind of switch I would need?? I know SPDT, but do I need one for 240v and 30a?? Or would I be ok with something else?? Thanks all for your input!!

Thanks!! I knew bobby had a setup like that but couldn't find it in my searching...

Yes, sorry. I have a brand new 3wire plus ground circuit. I have neutral in the box already.

I have a 240v control panel currently wired, but I want to be able to run the element at 120v (1/4 power) for rims. I'm told that a spdt switch would work, but would a 120v 30a spdt switch be what I'm looking for?? I would only be controlling one of the hots that go to the element outlet, but...

I meant that by circulating the way I do w an immersion chiller, the cold break is still mixed back in...or are you saying to do a whirl pool after it's cooled and I remove the chiller?? Btw I've only brewed on this setup once, so still figuring **** out!! :)

I should have been more specific, I use a copper immersion cooler, and recirculating the wort while using that made a huge difference, but definitely mixed the cold break and trub into the fermenter. I also have an electric element, which I imagine would inhibit the ability to whirlpool...in...

I should have been more specific, I use a copper immersion cooler, and recirculating the wort while using that made a huge difference, but definitely mixed the cold break and trub into the fermenter. I also have an electric element, which I imagine would inhibit the ability to whirlpool...in...

Yea, that's my whole point, I'm not sure I trust the ad...

I used it to recirculate while chilling my last batch, temp dropped MUCH faster than usual. I'm sure any movement keeping the wort moving while chilling will speed it up, and this provides plenty of movement.

I thought it also had to do with the type of plastic that is used? Like it had to be "new" or food recycled and not recycled oil containers...

I've been debating this too, and after seeing the inside of some RIMS tubes that aren't taken apart and cleaned often, Ive determined I want something that can be cleaned and seen throughout, so a rims w a Tri clover element is my plan so I can easily clean it. I just can't imagine what the...

Can you elaborate please? My concern is that when I search for the model, I find other ads that don't state it is food grade, I'm just looking to verify the product is safe to use.

Yes, it's a magnetic pump... Here's the link: http://m.ebay.com/itm/151238166815?txnId=1090183232005

I bought two eBay pumps a few weeks back, the ad stated that yes they were food grade. Now that I have the pumps I have the model, ZC-T40, and I can't find anything online stating that it either is or is not food grade. The pumps work very well at moving water in testing, but I don't want to...

Another thought, perhaps the wort was too stagnant while you heated to a boil, and "burnt" the wort that was sitting right next to the element...

Are you using the auto or manual mode on your PID? From what I've read, it seems a lot of people set the PID to 40-60% on manual mode for the boil...

This would work, but like I said I already have a 30a 240 line for brewing, I just wanted more power and to do things simultaneously with what already exists. Thanks all for the comments!!

Yea, actually tandem breakers can only be used in certain slots, the slit on the back of them is shallower than the regular breakers. I know they won't fit, even with a lot of force :), from personal experience. I really don't want to change or add anything, I thought I might just be able to...