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Bottom line, don't bottle or keg something that's actively still fermenting. The lack of bubbles doesn't prove anything, but active bubbling is active fermenting. Let it alone for a while.

You should be able to get the basics for about $50, maybe a little more.

I usually use a blend of hops - a very high acid one early in the boil to really bitter things up (I like Columbus for this but anything above 12% AA will be fine), and an aromatic one near the end for aroma (Amarillo is my favorite for this). And I usually use Cascade mid-boil since I have a...

It sounds like you'll need a few days - better adjust vector on this one! :mug:

I usually do three or four weeks in the primary and right to bottles. If I'm dry-hopping, I'll use a hops bag (for whole hops) or just throw pellet hops right into the wort. I've found that IPAs are much less dramatically hoppy after maybe three months, but it's rare that they last that...

I have hops in bulk but only because I grow them. ONce they get established, they grow like weeds. Other than that, sometimes I'll buy a little ahead on yeast, but that's about it. I buy what I need, when I need it.

I was thinking the same thing. 80F would NOT feel warm. I agree that it's likely that the temp was 100 or more. Go get yeast if you don't have any, just to be safe.

Exceptionally wise approach. As to your original question, I always use bottled spring water, either the five gallon jugs that we get delivered, or one gallon grocery store bottles (yes, the water in my area is fine, it just doesn't taste great). I take no special precautions and after over...

It sounds like you should have a real nice beer once you're done. Patience is most important at this point.

You should be fine, assuming that your processes were all good and you didn't rush things. I usually open a "test" bottle five days to a week after bottling, and it's normal to find them carbonated. What will happen over time (in addition to the taste maturing) is that the head retention will...

No doubt - but it also has been the subject of at least two major recalls in the past eighteen months or so, and problems with the new equipment they use to stamp lot numbers and expiration dates on the packets has been an issue. Like I said, check the yeast forum for more info. The issue...

Check the yeast forum - there are several threads up about issues with Nottingham. The short version is, some of it is fine, some of it, not so fine.

Oops - SWMBM?? In my experience, single women may be ornery.

Say When, McCuckerson - Before Order Evaporates Almost Completely! Oops - too late!

I normally don't like to post O/T comments, but I can't help myself: This thread gave me a chuckle - thanks to all and especially Revvy. And now one of my favorites: On my first batch, the little O ring on the air lock fell into my beer. I reached in after scrubbing my hand and arm as...

Agree. I've gotten to where if I don't get a chance to rinse them out (like, after a party) and the sediment dries, I usually just throw them into the recycle bin. But I have a TON of bottles.

Ditto what Clann said - and I make Pale Ales all the time. Three weeks, then to bottle, but if you get lazy or busy, four or five in primary is fine.

If we're going to get all worried about answering the original question, here it is - it was NOT about why a LHBS might be more expensive than an on-line retailer: "Are all homebrew stores insanely crazy about their prices?" That's NOT a question about pricing structures, or why they can be...

:D ...and arguing about which cheese steak is best is more likely to raise blood pressure than talking politics or which is the best beer city! :mug:

Phthp - I grew up here also, worked in South Philly for 20 years and I've had steaks all over the city and burbs. I don't care for Jim's - I think they went downhill over the years. Pat's was not so good maybe ten years ago but they improved the meat they use and they are back to being the best.