Search results

Back to your question about secondary fermenters - I had one that I used for special purpose brewing only (like fruit beers). I don't use it for making my regular house beer (APA - with recipe variations each batch) and have brewed award winning beers.

Light. But extra light would also probably work. As to the yeast, I only made this once so I have no opinion on a substitute - it would probably be fine.

We've had stink bugs around here for several years (until this year - they all seem to have disappeared for some reason). I found them often on my hops but they never seemed to bother the cones. It seemed like they were eating the leaves. Just try not to bring any in with your harvest.

That's how it always goes - the best beer beer of every batch is always the last one.

Another vote for Sly Fox Rte 113 Pale Ale.

I like canned LME better but I use both as situation and need dictates. I find that getting DME into the pot without having a clumpy mess to be difficult and trying. Reading through these, it sounds like most people's preference is based on which is easier for the user to handle, and not so...

Three week of primary, then into bottles, unless I'm doing something unusual in my process (like a fruit beer or something).

For those who are asking "What's the big deal?" - it's NOT a big deal. It's a very decent beer for the money. Chances are, if you are reading this board, you are not going to be incredibly impressed with it. But if you are a Miller/Coors Bud Light drinker, it's a huge step up and a "gateway"...

Watch for yard sales. $5 to $10 is the usual yard sale price.

Mine continue to grow like weeds but produce few if any flowers. My Cascades are almost ready to start harvesting (maybe in a couple of weeks) but the Mount Hoods are just climbing the trellis and enjoying the sun.

Well, you could take a look at some of the fruit beer recipes in the recipe data base - most of them have some discussion about the "hows" but maybe not so much of the why.

My two cents: I like the simplicity of cleaning the bucket. For that reason, and because of my fear of something glass that big, I got rid of my carboys. If I need one some time (like for some fancy secondary), I would go out and get a Better Bottle.

I've seen it both ways. I usually record sequentially, from the start of the boil. Sorry for the confusion. Good luck with it - can't wait to hear how it comes out.

Mine are growing like weeds - no cones yet though.

To the OP - my suggestion is similar to an earlier one. Pick a style that you enjoy and work on variations. Try different hops combinations. Grow your own hops. Experiment with whole, leaf and pellet to see the differences. Try color variations. See how pale you can make it while still...

From Page one: Yeast: Nottingham Dry Ale

Ever since I started using whole hops, I've found that my beers are much clearer. They seem to act as thousands of little filters.

Huh. "...Beer as good as a brewery's product." I would hate to settle for that! :)

Just make sure you have recorded your malt correctly about. I've never made a five gallon batch with less than six pounds of extract - often more.

Yeah, the Whole Foods I'm referring to (in Plymouth Meeting, for the Philly locals) will fill growlers - in fact, they will sell you one. It's pretty new, so that might be why they have this awesome beer facility - or it might be an artifact of those Pennsylvania beer laws that we grouse...