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Maybe I’m in a Mondaze and missing something obvious, but how would you know the pH of the mash without a pH meter and how would you estimate it without knowing the initial pH of the water?

I wouldn’t say a pH meter should be the last thing you need, since water profile is in my opinion the most important variable after the grain bill. But it might be best to save all that for after a couple all grain batches. As for other stuff, assuming BIAB and assuming you already have...

I dont use RO water so I’m not sure about its mineral content and pH. If it’s truly zeros across the board and pH 7 then yeah, that would probably work.

1/18th the price??? That’s some crazy efficiency or ridiculous bar prices. At most bars where I am beers cost $6-7 per pint. The very cheapest, happy-hour type places may have local stuff for $5. I cant really get much lower than a $0.90-$1 per pint on 5 gal batches of homebrew. It’s obviously...

It’s the water. With all the stuff I tweak and play around with in brewing, aside from the grain bill absolutely nothing changes the results as much as the water profile. Invest $50 in a pH meter, $50 in a water test (ward lab), and $10 in assorted mineral and acid additives… lactic acid...

I buy beer for a couple reasons. First, it lets me experience new styles that I haven’t had before, or just let me see exactly how a style is supposed to taste/smell. Second it lets me buy beer for people who only drink beer I hate… like my wife who loves pasty stouts and gimmicky adjunct beers...

I’m sure this is just an excuse to test your brewing skills, but as others have said it’s more-effective to just drink fewer beers.

Honestly unless you already have a freezer or can get one for cheap you’ll spend close to the same on DIY as you would turnkey. But it’ll likely hold more kegs, which is great. If you only care about having a couple beers on tap I’d just get a premade.

They’re pretty simple devices. Plug freezer into the cold side, plug controller into the wall, run probe into freezer, create setpoint on controller. Your freezer just runs full blast when needed and the controller breaks the circuit when it reaches the set temperature.

Yeah I noticed commercial beer is getting stupidly expensive. The famous ones who aren’t up to $12 six packs are just casually removing two beers and selling $9.99 four packs. I’m getting really tired of our post-covid economy where everything is expensive, nothing goes on sale, and everything...

Ball lock here

I’ve tried filtering a couple times. The cleanup afterwards is so tedious that it never felt worth it. Also it doesnt get rid of chill haze.

I dont taste metal from them, but I’m very sensitive to the burnt-caramel/raisin taste from the caramel 80 malts that are often used in them.

Compressors do as compressors do. I’ve repaired a handful of refrigerator compressors in my lifetime and in almost all cases no cool means bad start relay and/or overload protector. The parts are very cheap and easy to replace (usually just socketing into the outside of compressor), but you’ll...

This is good info. Following

Are you sure it’s a chemical taste and not extract twang or general sharpness from the beer being green?

Backseat with a seatbelt. Windows cracked because if it leaks I dont want to pass out while driving.

I’m slacking. I exclusively use oxiclean free and starsan

I’ve lurked here for a long time. I felt like it’s time to actually participate.