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Definitely interested. Do you 90 degree the ends of the coil to make connections easier? Or is this something we need to do on our end?

So, I am trying out a couple of different approaches here. I ordered up a 4" tall triclover from brewers hardware and welded this onto the bottom of a sanke. I kept the standard 2" sanke hole, but will use this with a 90 triclover tube and ball valve. Coupled with a wheeled stand this will...

Pickles, V2.0 of my setup is gonna end up very similar to yours. I just got all the parts over the weekend. I'll weld it all up this week and post pics when I get it done.

Haputanlas, I am working on a revision of this. I Really wanna do pressure ferments with the racking cane in place. I am gonna add a 1/2" tc ferrule to the end of the racking cane which will allow me to add a 1/2" tc ball valve. This way I can prevent beer from flowing until I deem necessary...

Nice, incredibly simple.

Brewing Sailor. Any chance you can share this schematic. There was another thread here that showed how they did their circuit, but I would be curious to see the real deal.

Interested to see how the rest of the powdercoating turns out.

I put these in another thread, but I like using the triclamps and simply putting the fitting I want to use on when appropriate. This also saves cost on fittings and adapters.

Great thread. I finally got my pressure gauge and pressure release valve installed. I just put it on a finishing beer. I welded up the 2" triclamp with 1/4 npt couplers today. Overall, I think this will be a great setup.

SV_1, just curious but how did you attach the ground cable to the inside of the 2.5" couplers that have been welded together?

It's probably too late, but please make sure the welder back purges the sanke with argon. I have welded on a lot of these sankes and it's super important that they do this or sugaring will be a huge issue (which you really won't be able to see unless you use a bore scope). The triclamp ends...

Funny, I took Derrin's design and I have modded it to work with a Corny Keg post to do exactly as you want. It was really pretty easy. I used the racking cane that Derrin sells at http://www.brewershardware.com/23-Racking-Cane.html. I welded everything up here myself and was able to pick up...

I bought mine from Lowe's. They had both 10/3 and 10/4 for sale by the foot. It was the black utility cord stuff that I got.

You can get 240v inline gfci cables. I don't see why you couldn't use that. I went with a gfci breaker to get 4 wire 240v.

Amt Name Type # %/IBU 14 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 73.7 % 2 lbs Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 2 10.5 % 1 lbs Munich Malt (9.0 SRM) Grain 3 5.3 % 8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 4 2.6 % 8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 5 2.6 % 1.00...

Id recommend using BeerSmith or a similar piece of software to do the conversion. You'll likely want to tweak the recipe after the conversion anyways.

I put 1" NPT couplers on my keggle (Anheuser keg) and put the center of the coupler at exactly 4" from the floor and it was the perfect height for the RIPP 550W element.

I had the same "dilemma". I ditched the analog thermometers and went the "digital" only route. If I have a question I have a small handheld I use to verify.

P_J, do you have any part numbers or vendors for those "gem connectors"?

I have a sealed box as well. I am wondering that if I was to move the diode to the outside of the case would be a better way to provide the required cold junction compensation?