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Honey malt is similar to crystal, so it will sweeten it up, but more sugar like sweetness, not like a honey sweetness Adding honey near the end of fermentation may be your best bet to get the honey taste you want. But it may jump start fermentation again. You could try cold crashing your beer...

Honey won't leave a honey flavor. I leaves more of a clove flavor. The sugars are fermented, which takes out the honey flavor. Honey malt makes the beer very sweet. Furthermore, honey malt can convert its own sugars but it's not very good at it. Not sure what to advise you on... You seem to...

It does make it sweet. You can try more and see what happens, it is only a gallon. A lot of honey malt leaves a sweetness not many people like. A little bit goes a long way so to speak. You could double it to ,20-.25 lb and see what happens. Maybe you'll enjoy it. Some people say no more than...

Here's a summary and the recipe I created on BeerSmith using your ingredients: 1lb Light DME (74.07%) .10 lb honey malt (7.41%) .25 lb Honey (18.52%) .25 oz Paladise Hops Not sure what kind of yeast you have, so I used Safale American Ale US-05 Steep Crushed grains in bag in 155 deg water...

Primary for 21 days in my opinion. General rule for beers is 1, 2, 3: 1 week in primary 2 weeks in secondary (most people just do 3 weeks primary unless lagering) 3 weeks in bottles I've never primed with honey. I think it would be too much. I use 5/8 of a cup of sugar for a whole 5 gallon...

Reading your post further, you have the order all wrong Heat water to 155, steep grains in grain bag for 20-30 minutes. Remove bag. Raise water to boiling (160 isn't boiling) Remove me from heat to add extract to prevent extract from burning Return to heat and boil. Once boiling, add your...

1 lb dme in 1 gallon will give you about an OG of 1.044, which if it ferments correctly will put you at 4.4% ABV Honey malt is a grain, and you can't just put grains into the boil. It's also a very rich grain. I think I read somewhere where you want to keep it around 10% of your grain bill or...

+1 I made four batches at first, then I couldn't brew for about 7 months because I had too much beer. SWMBO wouldn't let me buy more bottles I would absolutely make a half batch first. Until you get something you like or get more familiar with brewing processes.

Ok in seriousness... If you want a beer that turns around quick, you want an ale. Ales take 3 weeks fermenting and then 3 weeks in bottles. English ales are served less carbonated, so those are ready in a total of 4-5 weeks instead of 6. As far as cooling goes, get a big bucket, or use your...

If you have a dream that you we eating a sheep, and you wake up to your pillow being gone, you should seek medical attention

I get why some people do, but I personally feel like when I brew I try to create something different. Why clone a blue moon when I can just go to the store? People one over to try my homebrew, they are disappointed if its a clone. You're right though, to each their own. I did clones at first...

First beer I made was a Honeyweizen, comes with honey, liquid extract http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/honey-weizen-extract-kit.html This could be what you're looking for too http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/honey-koelsch-extract-kit.html All of their kits are liquid extract I think...

1. I'd never buy extract with hops. Who knows how long that extract was there, along with the hops. I didn't even now they did that 2. Dry is better than liquid extract in my opinion for several reasons. One being you get all the extract out in dry form. I could never get all the liquid out. I...

To clarify, vorlauf is when you are draining your mash the first time, you take the first 2-4 quarts and pour it back into the mash. Usually I do this until my wort looks more clear running through the tube, which can be a gallon, 2 gallons, whatever. I completely screwed up my first and...

I usually fly sparge, but I have not been consistent with my effiencies. I am going to switch to batch sparging. Adding water to the mash is your mash out. That needs to sit for 10-15 minutes. Sparging is after you drain your mashtun, and add water to it to drain it again (add half your...

1. A simple solution to liquid extract is to use dry only. For the dry extract you can prepour it into a bowl and then pour it into the boil. Make sure to remove the pot from the heat to prevent burning. 2.Good. Boil over means too hot. You don't need an incredible rapid boil. 3. A. I make a...

+1

+1 Libby's canned pumpkin

I didn't use whirlflock for my first dozen beers or so and it cleared wonderfully. Yes, you racked way too early. Primary fermentation is typically done in 7-10 days I don't know why you would rack to a secondary for an ale anyways. The vast majority leave it in the primary for 3 weeks then go...

Good point. Maybe I'll rack it into the 6 gallon. It's 3 gal anyways so it'll have dead space in the carboy. I've always had some kind of fermentation continue (very slow action in the air lock) after racking so maybe that'll eventually be co2 more than oxygen