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Thanks Nightrider, I guess that must have been before you upgraded to a 1/2bbl keg; I was thrown off by your current setup. I'm nervous to put a hole in my new keggle since electricbrewery.com says it will not work with anything with a diameter less than 13.5" and I'm looking at 11".

Did you use the same weldless setup described as Kal on the electric brewery? Was it a tall 30L keg? *****To clarify, I'm talking about a 1/4 bbl keg.

Will it work or is the curve of the keg too sharp?

I've been reading some advance homebrewing literature (Gordon Strong and Braukaiser) and theres a concept I'm having trouble wrapping my head around based on the following facts: a. The target mash pH at room temperature is 5.3-5.8 with a target of 5.5. b. Sparge water should be...

I'm not really sure of his explanation why; he said said if I went to the larger size I might have trouble with oxidization. It made me wary but on second thought this guy has give questionable advice before. So the consensus it to go with the 1/2? Even if I have to use 1/2 tubing and can't...

I'm not sure if my LHBS has 7/16. Will I still be good with 1/2? What about transferring to secondaries or sanke kegs where I don't have the option to easily flush CO2 without taking apart my gas system? Overall questions - how does the added efficiency compare to the added oxidization risks?

I snapped my 3/8 autosiphon while kegging last night and I am considering upgrading it to a 1/2 equivalent because it feels it takes an eternity to transfer anything over. The guy at my LHBS suggested this may be a bad idea because of potential oxidation issues. What do you guys use...

So I want to brew a 10G batch on a setup which will only accommodate about 7-8G of output. Of course I'll have to treat my top of water to create the correct ion profile and boil to sanitize beforehand. My concern comes from a step that people seem to leave out. If post boil wort pH is around...

Fantastic, Thanks for the reassurance and explanation.

Quick questions: When Kal suggests using 10/3 300V wire in his build, is there any harm in using the 600V equivalent if its more readily available? I'm pretty sure its good but shouldn't be guessing when it comes to using 240V power. Cheers,

Thanks everyone for all the information. Pictures will follow once progress is made.

Wonder if anybody can suggest why spending twice as much on the latter flanged outlets is worth while? I've seen builds with both types... What do people suggest? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00062BJG6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20...

I read on an electrical forum that fiberglass enclosures shouldn't be used outdoors because heat and UV light can cause them to degrade. Perhaps false information?

Thanks guys, I'll stick with the fiberglass enclosure in that case. Will keep you posted once I start working on it.

Sorry for the missing information: All voltages are 120V and all wires are 14awg. The sestos timer is the B2E-2R-220 I want the timer to simply trigger the alarm and reset when I press the momentary button.

Can anybody confirm that I've got this done correctly?

Thanks process head, that's reassuring. I was under the impression that the panels create dust as they degrade. Would this not be a hazard if they were to get into the beer?

Any concern for the fiberglass unit being around my beer. I was under the impression the material was carcinogenic. Maybe I'd be better with PVC?

I recently bought a fiberglass resin electrical enclosure to use as my control housing. Has anybody worked with this before or is familiar with the material? Will it be easy to cut without cracking? Is there any health concerns with the material I might be overlooking? Thanks for the answers.

Thanks Matt, I realize I wasn't clear. The additional water would be added to the water already in my hot liquor tank.