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For reference sake, could you post a picture of the kettle with the element and thermocouplein it? Also, what PID are you using? I'm just wondering if it has something to do with the controller or the placement if the element in relation to the thermocouple.

The biggest problem with the Speidels is finding them in stock anywhere :-(

Since OP hasn't delivered ... http://thermproducts.com/usa/?p=1938 I like the idea of an element that has mounting nuts instead of a screw in. You could mount it to a TC end cap and have a system with zero threads in contact with wort. Problem is that 2" OD kills it.

Ok, that at least makes me feel like I'm not completely off base. The problem is still why is the ratio in that zone? Like Yooper said, I would think tasting a witbier that it's all CaCl2, yet reading up on it seems to indicate the ratio is more along the lines of an IPA. I don't understand...

OH!!! Yeah that makes sense now!

Bru'n Water has a profile for Hoegaarden built in. I'm basing the Celis White profile on an old Austin,TX water report I found online.

This is what I thought at first! However, looking at Hoegaarden, the SO4/Cl is about 1.5 and Celis White is about 1.1. I can't make any sense of why unless SO4 boosts the flavor perception of the oils from orange peel, corriander, etc. like it does the perception of hops bitterness. Does...

Hey all. I'm going to brew a traditional witbier soon, but I had a few problems trying to sort out the water chemistry and estimating the pH. The grain bill is simple; 5lbs pilsen, 4 lbs flaked wheat, 1lb flaked oats. Since there's a high amount of unmalted grain in the bill, my mash schedule...

Sounds like beer stone. You'd need something like CLR or other acid cleaner to get that off.

If it's just a turkey fryer thermometer, why not just tape it to the outside or better yet, just get a fermentometer strip and stick that to the outside? Drilling holes and dropping probes just sounds like you're opening the path for possible infection.

Sure, you just need to know how fast water flows out of your spigot when it's full open and have some idea how fast it's flowing when you restrict it at certain set amount. You could figure this out empirically. After that, it's a pretty classic heat transfer problem. Honestly, I'm...

Um, I think you'd get a similar result with any IC if you optimized your flow rate with a valve and shook it all around as they do in the video.

No worries. That video was the reason I started working on some kind of controller circuit for induction brewing. I failed miserably. I hope someone smarter than me can eventually figure it out.

Rewatch the video and reread the comments. The plate under the HLT is a standard electric hot plate. It's not induction. The only induction plate in this system is the BK, which doesn't need a PID to control it. I maintain my original comment that you aren't going to use an induction plate...

You should think of it again. I'm sure there would be plenty of people on here interested in buying one off you.

Walter, Any chance there will ever be a SS tri clamp head for the 809/815? I thought you guys used to have one, but it seems to have vanished. Who can I bribe or beg to make it happen? Thanks.

Use radiant insulation from Home Depot/Lowes. It looks like aluminum bubble wrap.

No, bad idea. Induction plates have controller boards, they aren't like heating elements. Once you cut the power to the plate, you kill the controller board. When it cuts back on, you'll have to wait for it to complete it's start up cycle, then put the set point temperature back in. You...

Damn you, I live 5 minutes from that location...

Just to be clear, all your hops additions will be pellet, correct?