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I use crystal in my house IPA, but my goal with that one is a balanced beer with the malt in subtle harmony with the hops. The west coast style of IPA (and NE for that matter) certainly goes for different goals, where the balance could be perceived as muting the hops, but oxidation is bollocks IMO.

You’ve got the basics captured. I actually prime the cfc during the boil and cycle it a couple times (if you run continuously supplying boiling wort through your pump, you will cavitate in the pump and damage the impeller) so I can ensure sufficient time at high temp for sterilization of the...

My bet is on cavitation killing your prime when the bazooka plugged, but could also easily be a poor seal in one of the connections that pulls air when the bazooka plugs. As I didn’t see a whirlpool arm in the pics, if you put in one of those and whirlpool for 10 minutes with 10 minutes...

Best is cheapest find that will fit your carboy - I sourced a chest freezer for $30 on Craigslist in like new condition, and paired up with a temp controller - inkbirds weren’t around back then, but that’s what I would get now with a WiFi for convenience. Before then I was swamp coolering which...

Welcome welcome! From one central FL brewer to another, get some ferm temp control before spring comes a ragin! Swamp coolers are the pits…

I avoid the whole dueling riptides with auto sparge on the backend of one in the mash tun, and set the flow rate running into the auto sparge higher than exiting the Mashtun (but not so high that the pressure jams the auto sparge float to a full open position). The mashtun exit flow rate is set...

I think a straight toss in will get you the rye experience at best, a bump in flavor (if the husks have something to give in that department) and nada on fermentables. The water / enzymes will simply not have enough time / driving force to get in let alone convert. I would suggest some breaking...

Seems pedantic… Peroni calls it a Pilsner, and it is hopped and dry hopped with Saaz, so would fit the “category” in any case. Bittering uses magnum, which is not technically a noble, but don’t know many German brewers that would waste a noble on bittering. Anyhow, you’ve got a good idea of...

Not sure what size you were looking at, but may want to check out Stout’s jacketed conical as no coils and excellent insulation along with unitank, ports galore, yada yada

You may want have a look at the peroni clone thread for potential Italian Pilsner recipe ideas…

Since the event got delayed… Just a tip for portable pouring that I use for large events is to use a jockey box (or 2 since you have 4 taps) with coiled stainless inside and connects on the back so it can sit on any table combined with corny keg cooler bags. The cooler bags are nice since they...

I’ve had this type of frustrating experience as well. Since it takes days, it is a slow leak, so won’t get picked by starsan. First recommendation is to get leak check spray rather than using starsan, since it is more viscous and detects slow leaks better. I got to rip it out levels, so dropped...

If it hums, but doesn’t start, might be a bad capacitor. Tell tale is that it will run if you can give the impeller a nudge to turn over. Not sure how you could use this info to get the pump limping along, but if you manage to get it turning over, leave it running and use the linear valve to...

I make 4 gallons at a time using a pound of coffee to gallon of water ratio. The steeping time ranges between 16 and 20 hours depending on what I’ve got going on. The last tip is to split the coffee 50/50 caff and decaf to drop the octane a bit since extraction is quite a bit higher with the...

The enzyme activity temperature ranges vary, and while there isn’t a definitive line in precise temperature limits, alpha enzyme is activated in the higher temperature range you mention, which converts the sugars to more unfermentable versions ending with more body and higher FG, which would...

Didn’t see it mentioned, but to be sure, beer needs to be chilled to effectively absorb CO2. You can do it at room temp, but need much higher pressures to get the same volumes into the beer - check out a carbonation chart for reference. if not that, then I would also second a leak. Put pressure...

When I had issues with mine, I thought it was the cable as well. Carried on even after putting in spare cable. Turned out the back connectors of the front panel had corrosion, which got taken care of by pulling the front out and re-seating… give it a shot if the cable doesn’t do the trick.

I also used to use Oxy Free. I since changed to PBW as it takes care of the beer stone (the brown deposit you are seeing) much better. PBW does have primarily oxy in it, but has other additives like TSP 90. There’s a thread that talks about making your own if you don’t want to pay the premium...

Camlocks here with all hoses (silicone for wort, garden / high temp for cooling water) with female connections and all hardware (pumps, kettles) with male. I also consider triclamp for full compatibility, but came to the same conclusion of overkill and instead went with a cam lock to triclamp...

I would recommend a CIP ball - to make use of pumps you already have, go with a low pressure low flow made by the likes of SS Brewtech, as the bigger ones require high horsepower pumps which get pricey for the high temp versions that can handle caustic. Drill a hole in the lid and you’ll have to...