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I think he is referring to this one. https://www.ssbrewtech.com/products/2-bbl-unitank

Not certain which brand you are referring to, as they differ on temp control. Your key limitation will be thermowell placement and cooling (if internal coil) to ensure both are submerged. If a jacketed conical, then only the thermowell to worry about.

You can also make room by putting in double breakers that fit one slot, typically 15A ones. This is how I made room for the 30A breaker myself. In your case, double up two existing ones to make room for the dedicated 120V AC line.

For the k-rims, the coil is also used for boiling, so I haven’t figured a good foolproof system. I suppose an alarm based on EZBoil mode and pump toggle could do it. But like M33, I just adjust process steps to avoid it and KISS.

Only limit on minimum size on the 2V is covering the heating element at the bottom. For 10G max batch size, you’d be fine with a 15G/15G as your boil start would be one the order of 7G. On the mash tun, I use the auto sparge that can be set to any angle and I’ve seen longer throw arms used to...

A middle ground is 2V, which avoids the bag hoisting and allows flexibility for big beers. I can’t assail the logic of why use 3V where 2V will do... why use 2V where an appropriately size 1V will do... but for me, didn’t want to hoist 50 lb of hot wet grain (1/2 bbl) and didn’t have the space...

I’ve had very few issues as well. My only one is similar to mongoose33 in that I have, on occasion, killed the pumps while forgetting to kill the heating element (k-rims), usually while letting the grist settle after dough-in. Ten minutes of temperature rise gets it pretty toasty and...

I can’t answer your question, but can suggest an alternate approach to use Fermcap to avoid boilovers. I do AG half barrel batches, so many approach the tip top of my 20G kettle - Fermcap works like a champ, allowing rolling boil to within a half inch of my kettle rim and no boil overs.

I sample carbonated beer off my tank all the time to determine when it’s ready to package. Since it is under pressure, you will need to get a sampling coil to drop the pressure (same function as tube length in a regular keg setup). You may also wish to look into a spunding valve to shorten...

Do you fill with counter pressure? Before putting a spunding valve on the gas peg, I would see foaming in the receiving keg. Also, presume you tare your scale before filling, but filled hose weight, etc. can give some inaccuracy (unless tare with all in place) that could be on the order of a...

I have something similar in mind. I was thinking to charge the beer with CO2 and use up the remaining nitrogen and fill with beer gas on the next fill. As the CO2 partial pressure will decay over time, it would require periodic re-charging, but only a stop-gap to use up whatever nitro might be...

I have a couple and friends that have the growlerwerks beer growlers too with no issues. Can’t speak to anecdotal evidence of others, but I typically chalk it up to improper maintenance. Anyway, the link above is to a nitro product that allows cold brewing in the growler as well, though it is...

Did you catch this offering? https://www.growlerwerks.com/pages/ukeg-nitro

I have mine in my garage and I live in Florida, so peak temps are ~120. I currently have a brew conditioning at 35 with penguin set at 28 (I adjust that temp based on fermenter temp to avoid undershoots on temp from thermal lag.) For the coldest temps, it usually cycles every hour or so, though...

I am certainly of the buy once cry once camp. There are many pressure holding fermenter options these days. A trend has been to ferment in corny kegs with fermcap or the like to avoid fowling the blow-off and a floating draw tube to avoid picking up trub. There are pressurized conicals that...

I have a unitank and spunding valve on fermenter and keg. Like above, I pressurize fermenter to 15 psi and set keg spunding valve to 10 psi that allows for counter pressure filling carbonated beer to the keg. Without a fermenter that can take pressure, best you can do is run a tube from your...

I would also recommend the ball lock kegs. I use both and do typical cleaning with closed circuit PBW, rinse, starsan, and push to the next keg with CO2 leaving an empty pressurized, sanitized keg ready for counter pressure filling. This process works for regular transfers, though requires...

Alcohol presence adds an offset for refractometers - fortunately, this can be accounted for if you know your OG. Calculators can do the heavy lifting, such as https://www.brewersfriend.com/refractometer-calculator/

If you use conservation of energy, and you wish to lower 3 gallons by 140 degrees (boiling to room temp), you would at minimum 10.5 gallons (freezing to room temp). However, the temp gradient at the end would be very small, so heat transfer very slow. Rounding up to 15 gallons should work and...

+1, I had the same question, but learned of the significant advantages for jacketed conicals. I ended up going for a Stout 20g unitank and am very impressed with the build quality and operation of the tank.