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The fuse situation is confusing me a bit. Wouldn't the automotive fuses be 12v? I'd think I would need 120v fuses, which I also am having trouble finding inline fuse holders for the sizes I'm finding the 120v one in.

My PID controller has "a non-operator-replaceable fuse Type T (time-lag) rated at 2.0 or 5.0A @ 250V." if "2.0 or 5.0A" means that the soldered on fuse could be as low as 2A, does that mean I ought to put in something like a 1.5A fuse? The PID will be getting 120v, based on my current wiring...

I think my original intuitions were correct then. Thanks, I appreciate the help.

I don't have a lot of experience with electrical components, just some basics, so I guess I was looking at the switch because it's simple. I'll look up how that contactor would be wired up before ordering the switch. Thanks. Thanks for the image! I'll throw some fuse connectors into the...

That point about the light still getting power through the element made me wonder. When the element is on, do both hots now have 240v flowing through them? If so, do my element lights need to be able to handle 240v? I'm new to 240v and hadn't thought of what happens after both hots connect at...

I installed a GFCI breaker so my assumption was that any short would trip the breaker. If that's not the case, where would you recommend a fuse be put in?

I see your point. I'll be using a Watlow controller with the ability to setup and run multiple programs. I'll have to check and see if it can save PID settings for each. If so, then I can have a Mash program and a Boil program (followed by a switch to manual power output control, as I believe...

(Edit: I changed the plans above so that the element lights are now running off the red wire.) I don't yet have the switch, so maybe my assumptions of how it works are wrong. Here's the one I'm looking at: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1288-I-30-Amp-277-Volt-Double-Pole/dp/B003AUIRNY...

Switching to electric with 5500W Camco elements in both the HLT and kettle. Please take a look at my plans for the controller and let me know if I've got the wrong idea on any of this. There will be one PID with a double pole, double throw switch after the SSR. This should allow me to cut all...

Found this video from NB when grabbing that How To Brew link. Explains things well: http://youtu.be/jNVePBvI2ps

John Palmer's site/book explains it well: http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixA.html and I find the temp correction tool on Brewer's Friend to be very useful: http://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/ It's good to be able to track fermentation. Once the gravity stops dropping the...

Nothing looks out of the ordinary to me. What kind of harshness would you say you are getting? Are you bottle conditioning? When kegging, if the beer hasn't had time to settle out you can get a harsh bite from there still being a lot of stirred up yeast.

Ozarka Drinking Water seems to be good brewing water. Low alkalinity and minerals, just a little bit of chloride which is good. All the way to the bottom: http://www.nestle-watersna.com/asset-library/documents/o_eng.pdf

Controlling fermentation temp is great. low 60's might be a bit low though as most ale yeast ferment up around 68F. It's always a good idea to chill down to the temp you are going to be fermenting at, but pitching at 70F and fermenting mid 60's wouldn't give you a harsh taste I don't think...

The Brewing Network podcasts do have an annoying amount of locker room banter as noted above, but there is so much rich information in there that it's well worth it. I learn something new or increase my understanding of something almost every show. The very first episodes of the Jamil Show...

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AJ, Thank you. I read all 99 pages of the Primer and it was extremely enlightening. All the talk of RA and classic profiles made the topic of water chemistry very unapproachable. After learning about mash ph, calcium, chloride and sulfate from your posts, I finally understand enough to build up...