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Would re-circulation make mash thickness irrelevant? I'd expect that the mash thickness the grains are actually sitting in would have an impact on conversion/efficiency. (To whatever extent it actually does impact these things. I'm aware that most aren't too concerned with mash thickness) If...

Moving from mashing in a cooler to a larger three pot HERMS system. Also interested in increasing my liquor/grist ratio to 2.0 after reading that's about what Strong uses, and after reading some of Kai Troester's research as well. Ran some numbers and came up with the following. For a...

I ended up going with these from Frys: http://www.frys.com/product/6578423?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG Realized I was overthinking the wire gauge on the fuse holders when I said I wanted 10 gauge. With a max fuse of 10A, there's no risk of the wire burning up whether it's before the fuse or...

Does the MoreBeer kettle do a good job of dispersing the heat evenly with induction? I have the same 15 gallon and just bought a 26 gallon Update International (same as the MoreBeer just no ports).

Am I right in thinking that two induction burners would be plenty of power for 10 gallon batches? Or does induction work in a way that doubling up doesn't work like that?...

That sounds great. I plan on moving to 10 gallon batches but it looks like two of those burners would fit under my new kettle, and draw just under 30 amps. I think I'll have to get one and stick with smaller batches until I can afford a second one. Thanks for pointing those out.

And yours puts out another 900w.

That's what I thought... but all the hot plate elements I've just found from doing a quick search seem to be just as pricey. It's crazy. Wouldn't cost much more to get a fully functional induction burner like yours.

Yeah, realized those wouldn't be practical. Posted a link to 2600w hot plate elements in my last post, but your induction burner looks promising. Roughly how fast does it take 8 gallons from mash temp to a boil?

These are pricey, but seem like they could be built into a rig. Would need two. Though I don't yet have a clue how these get wired up... 240v 2600W Hot plate element: http://www.partstown.com/wells/wel2n-30293elul

Huh, seems odd that it wouldn't even let you boil a gallon.

Yeah, I'm excited about the 240v. Already installed the element in the HLT, but I would love to be able to keep the element out of the kettle. My chiller wouldn't have to be 2" off the bottom, and I could throw a smaller pot on from time to time.

I will most likely stick with my plan to install a heating element, but just contemplating alternatives.

I just ran 240v 30A to my garage. Four of these would probably pull too many amps, but I still have two other breakers running 120 to the garage as well, so it could be made to work.

Edit: The ones I mentioned below aren't functional. However, how about two 2600w elements, or any suitable external options? If one was to place four 1500w hot plates under their boil kettle, would that be equivalent to having a 6000w element submerged? Minus any inevitable heat loss. Just...

Note, Gordon Strong apparently uses a false bottom with ok results: "My system has a two-piece (think half moon) slotted copper false bottom that sits on top of a stainless steel stand. The false bottom has a rim to it, so when put in place, it's kind of like a tray in the bottom of the...

I've read through lots of threads dating back 5+ years that discuss using a false bottom in the kettle as a means of filtering out hops/break material. Some have said that the use of pellet hops can clog the false bottom. Others seem to use pellets just fine. I would like to explore what...

Awesome. Thank you very much for all the help. I'll update the plans to show the fuses and repost. Thanks again, doug293cz & BeardedBrews for walking me through this. Much appreciated.

Ok great. So the 10A fuse rated up to 250v will blow at 10A and the non-conductive materials are good up to 250v. Sounds like I can go with those. Thanks for the explanation. I like the idea of switching to 12 gauge or 14 gauge wire after the fuse, so I'd like to go with an inline fuse holder...

That works the other way too then? Meaning that the standard glass fuses at Lowes labeled 5A and rated for up to 250v, are going to be 10A at 125v? Thanks a million for the help. Some of the details take a minute to wrap one's head around.