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Mine worked in a stainless vessel just fine before I stopped using it because it got all wonky with the readings and calibration. I could actually get a reading on my phone from my stainless vessel even when I was downstairs directly under the room that my FV was in. I can't say for other...

It is not uncommon to adjust pH after dry hopping. I mainly like to get it dialed in early on so I don't have to worry about it later on down the line. However, there are circumstances where you may need to adjust later on, or after huge dry hopping. If your pH jumps up very high after that...

^^^ This 100% Tell us a little more about your process and equipment and we can help you figure it out. Also remember to take notes on each batch so you can better dial in your brewhouse efficiency/consistency! Also, that is awesome that you brew together!

Generally low 5's is where I've seen good break formation. I believe a target of 5.2 is where you will see optimal break formation and is a good place to start in order for Irish moss or whirlfloc to work at its best if added in towards the end of the boil. You can also keep your boil pH a bit...

100%. I like to target about 35 - 40 ppm of Na for my hazys. It definitely adds to mouthfeel and even adds to the perception of sweetness that you typically want in a hazy to help enhance that juiceyness.

I use Brun water to determine my mash pH and water profile. There isn't much out there to determine pre boil pH so sometimes I adjust blindly, little bit at a time until I reach my target. I then take notes to help me determine what i might need to add for future brews. Most of the time, I have...

Not to go too much off-topic, but I've been going crazy with pH lately. It certainly should be tracked throughout the entire process (If you're up for it). Especially with highly hopped beers. That small shift in pH can turn a dull harsh IPA into something bright and pleasant, or really bring...

I'm in Florida so no basement here. I too brew in my kitchen, but then bring the wort upstairs to my spare room where my glycol chiller and unitank are set up. I use a sanitized 3 gallon plastic carboy to transfer the wort upstairs to the unitank. I do 2 - 3 trips (carrying about 2 gallons at a...

I personally do not like diluting my wort unless it is with a minimal amount. I know it is an acceptable practice and will still produce great tasting beer, but like I said if I am over/under 2-3 points then I'd rather just let it ride and takes notes to adjust for next time I brew the recipe...

Mine always falls out too. It usually happens half way through the mash. It's really not needed as others have mentioned. I always build my water the night before and then set the timer so my strike water is heated and ready to go when I wake up. I only put the seal in to close it up over night...

It could possibly be oil's still on it from the factory. You may have to try something like TSP to clean it, then pbw after.

My tap water is pretty hard, so I always cut it with distilled water and then build it to where I want. Generally, chlorine will boil off rather quickly. It will also evaporate out of room temperature water if you let it sit open to air. However, I am not sure how long it would take to evaporate...

I had a feeling you were dropping it that low to maximize your fining agents. As others mentioned and my initial response, I think you'd be fine if you just shut off the gas to the other kegs. The amount of co2 absorbed would be minimal and would equalize after temperature goes back up. Just...

How long do you want to keep it at 32 F? Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but couldn't you either just shut the gas off to the other kegs (assuming you have a manifold setup), or disconnect the gas from the other kegs so they won't absorb any extra co2 other than what is in the headspace? Then...

For honey malt, I typically enter it in as a crystal malt at 25L, which is what beersmith lists it at. This has worked pretty good for me. Your grainbill looks good. I've been brewing a lot of IPAs lately and pH will certainly play a role in the outcome of your hops. I typically aim for about...

I was drinking my house IPA. It's kind of a west coast x east coast colab, using citra/mosaic/Idaho 7 hops. Absolutely delicious! Now I'm finishing the night with my oak/rum infused pumpkin ale. Been working on this recipe for several years and I think I finally got it to where I want. I use...

This makes sense. I wonder if deleting the app and reinstalling it would help then? I'll also try the battery. I didn't think it was bad because it was only a few months from when I bought it, but who knows how long the battery had been sitting in it prior. Maybe I'll try these things and give...

I have one tilt. I bought it to see how it goes. The first two uses I loved it. The OG and FG were pretty damn close to my refractometer and hydrometer. I used it in a lager to help determine when to start my d-rest. Worked great for this! As the batches went on, I noticed the temperature and...

I think you should be fine as long as you weren't drawing from it while it was partially frozen. Doing that may pull certain flavor compounds in the beer that didn't fully freeze yet and make it taste off, or at least it seems like that is what happened to me. I had a keg form a nice big ice...

Today I cleaned my blow off arm and put it back on since it was done spewing out yeast like mad. I also cleaned out the glass and put fresh sanitizer back in for the blow off to continue to bubble into. I then got online and looked at new flasks for a yeast starter since the one I had fell over...