The Complete Guide to Making Mead by Steve Piatz is a decent read.
While looking this one up, I found his blog. It looks like one I need to add to my reading list.
https://stevepiatz.net/
Opened a 2 year old cyser last night. It was OK, nothing to brag on, but OK.
I was making them sweet back then, for some reason. Its SG (according to the label I put on it) was 1.020 at bottling. It also could have used a touch more acid.
Yep, it is certainly best practice but we all have our limitations - time, financial, comprehension, energy, etc. Hit as many best practices as you can, and don't sweat those that you can't.
And enjoy your mead, which should turn out great.
Time, as suggested, will probably help. And if that doesn't work, blending is a good option.
I wonder what oak would do for it?
Otherwise, I don't know what to do with bitter ...
Bottled a beautifully clear traditional, and a cyser-chokecherry blend.
Put away my equipment for the season, as I am out of honey and pretty much all my bottles are full. I'll start my next batch in the fall or winter.
Topic drift, but ...
For anything with a gravity of less than 1.090, I add it upfront if I am using Fermaid-O, or after 24 hours if using DAP. (This is where I confess that I still use DAP sometimes ...)
For any higher OG, I figure up my total nutrition additions and divide it into three...
I found a better home here ...
As far as acids, backsweetening, and tannins, I taste my meads each time they are racked (from primary, plus 1-2 more during secondary/clearing) and add what I think is lacking each time. I work my way towards what I think will work out well while aging. By...
One pound of honey in a gallon of must adds about .035 points to the SG. So 3 pounds would be .035x3=1.105.
Or, using the GotMead calculator (The Mead Calculator – Got Mead? The Largest Mead Resource on the Web), I get 1.108.
Are you sure your hydrometer is good?