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I was reading back from some earlier posts about dry hopping in the thing, and I thought I would chime in with what I've been doing. The technique I have been using (same as for keg dry hopping) is to take two coffee filters and put the hops and a stainless nut/washer/marble inside, then...

As far as stuff getting stuck above the ball, the only thing that I have seen this with is the Wyeast 1968, which makes a brick of yeast cake when it floc's out. Other yeasts have maintained some level of fluidity and will eventually move. I think this time I will try running the stuff out...

I brewed another pilsner (all the same as last time; OG=1.042, FG=1.011, Wyeast 2308) but didn't put the ball on the bottom of the conical after removing the trub that settled initially into it. I left the batch for 2 weeks with the first week being the majority of primary ferment and the...

I would just keg it. I doubt you are going to get much of a difference in the amount of suspended yeast in 24hr if you already waited weeks. My experience was like yours, lots of nice clean yeast collected at the end. Did you taste the beer yet, and if so did you notice any yeast cleanup...

From several places I have heard/read that the area of exposed yeast is proportional to the ability of the yeast to clean up. If I understand it correctly, this is the same reason that a certain big brewer uses beechwood as a landing zone (so to speak) for the yeast. The high surface area of...

I did try leaving the valve closed so the stuff would stay above, but I found that the yeast made a plug that wouldn't break and I ended up racking off the top (that was Wyeast 1968). I considered hooking up a CO2 line to the hose adapter and blowing some CO2 in the bottom to break up the clot...

So I have used my FF for a few batches now. One thing that I am a bit concerned with is the cleanup of diacetyl and acedaldehyde by the yeast after the ferment is done. In a carboy, there is a large surface area for the yeast to contact the beer even after they have mostly settled to the...

I think this is highly dependent on your sanitation practices. If everything is sanitary then you can probably get away with it. I have done a bunch of the no-chill method, and the time that is important is the time from opening the no-chill container to pitching. I have left the wort in the...

I brewed my first batch using the 10g 240V BoilCoil in a homebrewing.org 9gal pot. I'm very pleased with the performance. I found that I had to run it at about 85% to maintain a nice rolling boil with 8g of wort in the pot. I have the system setup to act kind of like a RIMS with the full...

For the people that have sanded the top of the fermentor to get the seal to work correctly, have you done anything to smooth that surface back out to make it more sanitary? that scratched surface is not ideal for sanitation by a long stretch, but fortunately it is in a place that doesn't...

Hi All, So here are a couple updates from my second run using the conical. 1) -the bad- One of the mounting bolts for the bracket snapped off right where the threads start on it. I heard a pop as I was filling it and just tossed a clamp on it for now. 2) -the good- As someone else did...

I used a graduated pitcher to measure the level markers for 1, 1.5, and 2 gallons. They seemed as accurate as my pitcher. The level does not include the ball volume. I measured with the ball off and the valve closed.

I think you could do this as long as your sanitation was excellent, and you were keeping it fairly cool. When I had mine sitting for a while it was at 50f. That said, I have had batches that sat for 5 days before I decided the yeast were just dead and then repitched and things ended up fine...

The only leak was from the o-ring that I didn't notice was stuck to the ball side when I put the hose barb on. Even then, I probably only lost maybe 1/2 cup of liquid during the whole transfer process.

The collection ball was full, and the stuff in it was really solid. I expected it to pour out, but only about 1Tbsp of stuff came out and I had to rinse repeatedly to get the rest out. I ran the stuff in the bottom of the cone into a 1 gallon jug and it looks like I got a good crop of yeast...

So I just ran off my batch from the fast fermenter into a keg and had a couple notes for people. 1) When I took off the ball I didn't notice that the o-ring that is on the union valve stuck to the ball side of the union and when I put the hose on it leaked as I ran it out. 2) The beer seemed...

In my case, that is what I did ( actually I let it settle and dumped the trub, then fermented with the valve open to the ball ) but there is so much yeast and other material that it has filled the ball and the bottom 4 inches above the valve.

Was that including the material above the valve in the picture?

I just checked mine and it look similar. Even with dumping the trub before ferment there is still a decent hunk of yeast above the valve. Has anyone had a problem with the yeast plug being too densely packed and not dropping when the valve is reopened later ( with the hose or ball on there)...

Like I said, I don't know how much difference it would make...but it is regular practice for many to flush bottles, kegs, lines, filters, etc with CO2 before using them. I think I would be more concerned about the O2 in the head space and dissolving since the CO2 isn't going to push it out very...